This would ruin your compressor, and likely your evaporator, unless you are almost as good (and at least as reliable) at engaging and disengaging the clutch at the right pressures as the car is.

It would be a better idea to wire something through the low-pressure switch.

Running voltage as high as I am would definitely be a problem if I did not have a battery, and alt supporting it.
But yeah I know what you mean, if I go any higher it will get wonky, at most I am worried about shortening lives of sensors, etc..
A lot of people are doing it now, we delete our batteries, if I could fit two alts I'd run a stock one on an AGM at normal voltage, and then my high power alt and batt for the system.
Most days the system is draining the juice, and the hotter it gets the lower the voltage, atm avg I am seeing is 14.7v
I have everything connected via bus bars, I'd have to separate the cars power and ground, not hard to do, I just am not sure how to step it down, I'll have to look into that.

For the AC, I'm not sure how to run something through the low pressure switch atm.
Would that override the ambient temps at ICE issue as well?
I only use ac during a 15 min ride to work, one15min, and two 30 min breaks, if it is hot outside.
I keep the system filled..

I found one of these, it should take care of my voltage for the cars factory things...

It would normally cycle every few seconds once it gets stabilized. If you let it keep pumping, that'd damage things.

I don't know if this is right. It says in the Item Details that its input voltage is 11.98VDC .

Well damn, I guess it'* back to chasing the gremlin that I have yet to read about somebody figuring out..

Input can be from 9v to 17v, output can be 10v to 17v, but it is only 50A, I/m guessing my load with everything in the car on is higher, I don't have a way to clamp it and see how many amps it would pull, I need to get a proper meter.
From what I have heard a lot of the older cars do better at higher voltage than newer models, I have had some report having to change headlights a little more frequent than usual..
It depends on a few variables I think..
One guy said at 15.5 his wipers would come on, and something else went wonk, said he dropped down to 15.3v and it stopped.
I'll figure out the voltage thing, but I need to figure out this AC issue because the heat is coming! :(

I think I'll get a wire tracer, and see if that helps me locate the wires for the sensor inside the car..
That way I can check to see if it is grounding out..

I think I am on to something, I am pretty sure it is something in the harness going from the sensor to the BCM that is shorting out, I read about GXP'* having the same problem, guys said you could drop the glovebox lid and see it, but in my car it is not like they had a picture of, it was more like the way my glovebox on the old 96 Park Ave had to be opened, by the lil rubber flaps...
They mentioned all the errors I am seeing, the fuel low, traction control, abs...
I had some codes this morning, showed a loss of communication with the BCM, I also watched the DIC go dark, then light back up and when it did the ABS light on the dash came on.
I scanned it with a scanner I had for ABS, and there are no ABS codes set...
So a short in the harness, or a bad BCM...

I removed my radio, hvac unit etc, no wires behind it look bent.
I do occasionally, and have in the past heard a buzzy electric sound behind the dash, IPC area somewhat...
Tonight when driving I seen service theft system, and all the other DIC errors I mentioned, then the DIC went out/dark, the temp, gas level, and rpm'* went to 0, only my MPH on the IPC still showed/worked, EBCM, IPC communication lost errors, etc
Too many DTC'* to list, I could get a screen shot though.
All this trying to get to a short from an ambient temp sensor, and it is turning out to be quite the gremlin...
I did dial back my voltage a bit, but it did not make any difference.