Have any of you ever dealt with a bad temp reading on the DIC, and it is not fixed by replacing the sensor?
I have had the issue for a while, tricked it with a 2ohm resistor for a bit, but the temp reading would say from ICE to 43F, and it would be 75F out.
I may try to replace the sensor connector..
But the main thing I am trying to figure out without digging out my FSM is where do those wires terminate inside, I have auto climate so I am thinking they come in the big harness with the radio and all, and terminate at the air control unit?
It is maddening not to be able to have AC when it gets really warm, and while we have a cool few days here I figured I'd get on it before the heat of Summer hits..

Hope all of you ole timers are well!

Yeah, have seen that a few times. For me, it has always been a bad ambient temperature sensor. I've had bad sensors replaced by bad new sensors that are shiny and clean and new in box and from more budget-oriented manufacturers as part of this, where a bad sensor was replaced with a new but poor sensor, and the readings went from -99 or OC or other insanity to weird and inconsistent readings.

I've never had trouble with Delphi replacement ambient sensors.

I have replaced it twice, cannot remember what the first sensor was, the second was some advanced auto brand.
What has me feeling like somewhere I am shorting to ground, or have a bad wire, is that even with a resistor the temp starts out showing what I expected, like 60F @ 2ohm, then after a while its dropping to show 40F, then occasionally ICE.
I have heard around 40F was default or something..
I wanted to find where the wires end up so I can do a resistance test on them.
I have read some saying since I have auto climate they run from sensor to the harness going into the air head unit...
I just want that AC compressor to turn on when it is hot out... :(

On a sidenote, maybe related, maybe not.
I do see an ABS and Traction control warning on the DIC from time to time, and a few times it showed low fuel when it was full.
I did have a leaking radiator a while back, it was leaking on around the PCM area, I removed it when I put the new rad in, and it looked ok, hopefully it did not get damaged in any way.

All these things together make me think there'* a flaky ground somewhere.

I checked the inside ground, the one by the passenger door, removed it and all inside lights went out, cleaned it and reconnected it.
All grounds seem ok, of course the ground to the sensor could be an isolated issue, I think I recall it started first, and a few months before the other issues..
Could partially be my system aggravated with the 15.5v she is seeing, I run Sodium Ion only, on a high output alt, for music purposes...
If I can find the right wire going into the car from that sensor I should be ok, as long as the AC works I'll figure the other issues out afterwards.

I see the wire loom that covered the sensor wire were taped, so I unwrapped and inspected them, they looked fine.
I cleaned the one ground right under the passenger headlight..
I disconnected the power, and will reconnect and see what the sensor shows.
Having the temp display change with a fixed resistance via the 4ohm, then 2 ohm resistors I tried.
They would display correct at first, but then after like 15 mins or so the temp starts showing lower, then lower, then ICE..
I wonder if something in the BCM or PCM is screwed up, shrugs, I hate electrical gremlins, I am terrible at chasing them down, lol

It still could be a ground, I read something that said there were like 3 grounds tied together in the harness, where the sensor wires come out inside the vehicle..

It shouldn't see 15.5 volts. Was never designed for that. Not sure what that would do.

Normally no, but with todays high wattage systems, in my case I am around 6kw, my battery works optimally at 15.5v..
I had the AC issues last year, when I had just AGM power, and 14.4v at most...
I only run one battery, so I cannot let the system see less power, unless I can find a way to reduce some of it just for the system..
Not enough room to run two alternators or I would.

Until I figure it out, couldn't I jumper the 30 and 87 pins on the compressor clutch relay, maybe put it on a switched temp relay?
I have one, and the stuff to wire it up.. Then when I need air I flip the switch..
Granted I'd not do this if I did not know my AC unit was full on refrigerant, I would not want to burn the clutch out.