Make your guesses now.
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Oldsman has the correct answer. That is dead on. My car pulls timing based on IAT temps regardless of KR (which I didn't have with the last pulley). You can eke out an extra 1 or 2 degrees (3-6 horsepower) if you know what you're doing.
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From: Bolingbrook, IL Location: Clarkston, MI
Originally Posted by OLDsman105
Originally Posted by llBlazin_llLo
I don't really get the timing thing... Your not really adding timing. If you don't have KR you will almost always have full timing. With your setup it would be nice to take away timing but I'd rather control that with octane.
Series one cars have low timing as it is - timing is free power. I'd rather be up to 15-18 degrees of timing and less boost then 12 or less degrees of timing and high boost.
Series one cars have low timing as it is - timing is free power. I'd rather be up to 15-18 degrees of timing and less boost then 12 or less degrees of timing and high boost.
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From: New York City
Originally Posted by willwren
Oldsman has the correct answer. That is dead on. My car pulls timing based on IAT temps regardless of KR (which I didn't have with the last pulley). You can eke out an extra 1 or 2 degrees (3-6 horsepower) if you know what you're doing.
I should put that in my sig j/k.
Now if you adjust IAT reading. How much is to far? I know this is a "track only deal" . But if track temps of 90 degrees. I would be afraid to eke one degree of timing with the CooCoo boost you are running.
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Originally Posted by llBlazin_llLo
Originally Posted by OLDsman105
Originally Posted by llBlazin_llLo
I don't really get the timing thing... Your not really adding timing. If you don't have KR you will almost always have full timing. With your setup it would be nice to take away timing but I'd rather control that with octane.
Series one cars have low timing as it is - timing is free power. I'd rather be up to 15-18 degrees of timing and less boost then 12 or less degrees of timing and high boost.
Series one cars have low timing as it is - timing is free power. I'd rather be up to 15-18 degrees of timing and less boost then 12 or less degrees of timing and high boost.
Why do you think I'm doing this?Ambient air temps are typically 100 or more, and track (asphalt) temps are 135. Last two years in a row. I'm trying to do what I can to run what I have without stepping backwards.
Now if you adjust IAT reading. How much is to far? I know this is a "track only deal" . But if track temps of 90 degrees. I would me afraid to eke one degree of timing with the CooCoo boost you are running.
I'm not sure it'll be ready for WCBF, but I'll do what I can.
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It'* wired in.
The fan override works. This means we don't have to run a wire through the firewall for it any more. 92-95 cars can go straight to the PCM. It'* the easiest connector to get to without removing the PCM.
Estat (160) mode works great. Scantool sees about 25°F added to the coolant temp when I throw the switch.
Timing advance (happy ****) responds as expected on the scantool, but is very sensitive. I need to make a Potentiometer change. I'll probably go with a 10k pot and another resistor in series, but it does respond. Timing testing should commence this weekend.
The fan override works. This means we don't have to run a wire through the firewall for it any more. 92-95 cars can go straight to the PCM. It'* the easiest connector to get to without removing the PCM.
Estat (160) mode works great. Scantool sees about 25°F added to the coolant temp when I throw the switch.
Timing advance (happy ****) responds as expected on the scantool, but is very sensitive. I need to make a Potentiometer change. I'll probably go with a 10k pot and another resistor in series, but it does respond. Timing testing should commence this weekend.
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