Make your guesses now.
07-17-2006, 03:16 AM
#51
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Originally Posted by willwren
My high boost levels this week since the last pulley change have:
1. Sucked my K&N RX-4750 filter inside-out.
2. Sucked the bolted-on 5" diameter exhaust tips off 7 ricers.
3. Sucked a depression into my hood (WCBFers will see it).
4. Pulled two centerline reflectors off Highway 20 on my commute.
There are 4 small children missing in Albany, Oregon. Am I running too much boost?
I'm not sure I'll have the box done before WCBF, but I'm going to try. I still need to fabricate my final 'additional idler' bracket. This one has held up for 1200 miles, but the loads it'll see at the dragstrip are extreme.
1. Sucked my K&N RX-4750 filter inside-out.
2. Sucked the bolted-on 5" diameter exhaust tips off 7 ricers.
3. Sucked a depression into my hood (WCBFers will see it).
4. Pulled two centerline reflectors off Highway 20 on my commute.
There are 4 small children missing in Albany, Oregon. Am I running too much boost?
I'm not sure I'll have the box done before WCBF, but I'm going to try. I still need to fabricate my final 'additional idler' bracket. This one has held up for 1200 miles, but the loads it'll see at the dragstrip are extreme.
07-17-2006, 08:27 AM
#52
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The trick will be wiring this to the PCM harness without disconnecting the PCM. It'* learned the 2.0" pulley now, and I don't want to lose that.
07-17-2006, 09:23 AM
#53
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
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Shouldn't be much of a trick with the connector views and wire placement diagrams at the back of the book in the 8-120 section I think it is...
Simply need the output wire to the relay.
Simply need the output wire to the relay.
07-17-2006, 01:59 PM
#55
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Originally Posted by willwren
My high boost levels this week since the last pulley change have:
1. Sucked my K&N RX-4750 filter inside-out.
2. Sucked the bolted-on 5" diameter exhaust tips off 7 ricers.
3. Sucked a depression into my hood (WCBFers will see it).
4. Pulled two centerline reflectors off Highway 20 on my commute.
There are 4 small children missing in Albany, Oregon. Am I running too much boost?
I'm not sure I'll have the box done before WCBF, but I'm going to try. I still need to fabricate my final 'additional idler' bracket. This one has held up for 1200 miles, but the loads it'll see at the dragstrip are extreme.
1. Sucked my K&N RX-4750 filter inside-out.
2. Sucked the bolted-on 5" diameter exhaust tips off 7 ricers.
3. Sucked a depression into my hood (WCBFers will see it).
4. Pulled two centerline reflectors off Highway 20 on my commute.
There are 4 small children missing in Albany, Oregon. Am I running too much boost?
I'm not sure I'll have the box done before WCBF, but I'm going to try. I still need to fabricate my final 'additional idler' bracket. This one has held up for 1200 miles, but the loads it'll see at the dragstrip are extreme.
07-17-2006, 05:02 PM
#56
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Careful boss don't take her faster than 88mph or you'll activate the flux capasitor and send yourself back to 1955
"ADV" is a bypass switch to enable the potentiometer (dial), allowing it to control timing advance. This is VERY dangerous considering the high boost levels I'm running now. It gives me the ability to advance the timing as far as the PCM will allow which is HIGHER than a stock PCM to answer Blazin'* earlier question, since I'm running the Jet Stage 2 PCM. This feature is more for testing than anything.
07-17-2006, 05:06 PM
#57
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That'* what it is. The OBD2 cars can't do it this simply. The happy **** has to be programmed into the PCM code.
We can do it with the S1 cars (and the S2 95 only L36) because those few of us who have MAP sensors only have them for the boost gauge.
For us, the amount of timing is primarily based on FIXED 'assumed' MAP tables in the PCM, so the only variable is the IAT input. If you change that, you change timing.
On the OBD2 cars, the MAP is not in programmed table mode, but is a varying input. So if you alter the IAT signal, the MAP still knows you're up to no good, and sets it back where it should be.
Make sense?
I'll be able to adjust my timing to the max level in my PCM, which is higher than stock now. I don't recall the total advance numbers, but I won't be going crazy with it with the 2.0" pulley. What I MAY do is slightly retard the overall max timing if I have a little KR. Do it manually to prevent it in the first place.
Maybe. It'* a tuning toy. I'll learn from it.
We can do it with the S1 cars (and the S2 95 only L36) because those few of us who have MAP sensors only have them for the boost gauge.
For us, the amount of timing is primarily based on FIXED 'assumed' MAP tables in the PCM, so the only variable is the IAT input. If you change that, you change timing.
On the OBD2 cars, the MAP is not in programmed table mode, but is a varying input. So if you alter the IAT signal, the MAP still knows you're up to no good, and sets it back where it should be.
Make sense?
I'll be able to adjust my timing to the max level in my PCM, which is higher than stock now. I don't recall the total advance numbers, but I won't be going crazy with it with the 2.0" pulley. What I MAY do is slightly retard the overall max timing if I have a little KR. Do it manually to prevent it in the first place.
Maybe. It'* a tuning toy. I'll learn from it.
07-17-2006, 10:16 PM
#58
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Originally Posted by OLDsman105
Careful boss don't take her faster than 88mph or you'll activate the flux capasitor and send yourself back to 1955
Does the "ADV" adjust what the PCM procieves as the IAT temputares to help timing or is it something else?
and should Will keep an eye on those car keys so Einstein doesn't take a trip to a trash can where a certaint purple dinosaur was discovered a few weeks ago
07-17-2006, 11:55 PM
#59
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I don't really get the timing thing... Your not really adding timing. If you don't have KR you will almost always have full timing. With your setup it would be nice to take away timing but I'd rather control that with octane.
Series one cars have low timing as it is - timing is free power. I'd rather be up to 15-18 degrees of timing and less boost then 12 or less degrees of timing and high boost.
Series one cars have low timing as it is - timing is free power. I'd rather be up to 15-18 degrees of timing and less boost then 12 or less degrees of timing and high boost.
07-18-2006, 12:10 AM
#60
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Originally Posted by llBlazin_llLo
I don't really get the timing thing... Your not really adding timing. If you don't have KR you will almost always have full timing. With your setup it would be nice to take away timing but I'd rather control that with octane.
Series one cars have low timing as it is - timing is free power. I'd rather be up to 15-18 degrees of timing and less boost then 12 or less degrees of timing and high boost.
Series one cars have low timing as it is - timing is free power. I'd rather be up to 15-18 degrees of timing and less boost then 12 or less degrees of timing and high boost.