Intake option (Rice Pipe) Read entire thread b4 asking q?
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Originally Posted by Iglarum
can somebody go through this thread and weed out what isn't needed?
The point of this thread was to show how to get this simple intake to work on our cars with a little bit of modifying. This will work on any 88-current 3800 car with modifications, but it will be different for each kind of engine bay, depending on throttle body size, washer bottle'* or PCM'*. It will need to be shorter for 00+ engines, SC cars will need to be more angled etc.
Basically we can't tell you what you have to do, the best thing is to buy it, have a hacksaw, and go out to your car and figure out how to make it work. 2000Silverbullet Made his with basic materials, i bought a pipe after measuring it for angle and diameter at the store. It fit my requirements, and I pieced the rest together.
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From: Reutlingen, Baden-Wurttemburg, Germany
Which do you think is more important, laminar flow or the diameter of the pipe?
I ask because I made my intake out of 3" exhaust tube, and the bend is not perfect, it is somewhat restrictive. However it is at least laminar...would it be worth my money to invest in the "rice pipe"?
I ask because I made my intake out of 3" exhaust tube, and the bend is not perfect, it is somewhat restrictive. However it is at least laminar...would it be worth my money to invest in the "rice pipe"?
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If it'* restrictive, it'* not laminar. You need a mandrel bend for laminar. Ditch the pipe. The ricepipe will flow better because of the bend.
Laminar may not seem important on an SSEi that'* just going to churn the air up as soon as it gets through the TB, but remember that you need the MAF sensor to get an accurate reading. The more laminar, the more accurate it reads the amount of air.
Laminar may not seem important on an SSEi that'* just going to churn the air up as soon as it gets through the TB, but remember that you need the MAF sensor to get an accurate reading. The more laminar, the more accurate it reads the amount of air.
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Stock accordian tube would be worse in most cases. Ideally you would have NO bends and no transitions/splices. If you have to have a bend, you want it gradual and mandrel bent. Even the rice pipe could be more gradual, if you compare it to the pipe in my sig pic, but I think as far as bang for the buck goes, it'* damn hard to beat.
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From: Fargo, ND
Originally Posted by mkaake
Originally Posted by willwren
I don't see a problem. But check first. I'm sure someone around here is running the RX-4750 on a civic pipe in a Series 2.
anyhew, how in the world did you people use 3 inch couplers? i used a 3.5 to 3 reducer and BARELY got it to fit on! it took me and theJMFC about 15 minutes of pushing and pulling as hard as we could to get the dumb thing on the throttle body!
anyway, I'm really happy with mine. I didn't use an aluminum pipe (bought a u-bend on ebay, thought it was going to be aluminum, forgot to specify at the end of the auction, and got aluminized steel), but it worked out great! I got to pick my own custom angle, to put the filter right where I wanted it. I'll have to take some pics for you guys... it'* not done, mind you (need to make a box), but I took the insulation that was around the PCM and cut it up so it would form a psuedo box... and it seems to work okay. After heating the car up, there'* a noticable temperature difference between the 'hot' and 'cold' side of the insulation. once the weather is warmer, theJMFC and myself will be working on the polycarbonate box.
but I like it a lot
And with the IAT sensor, do you need to buy the aftermarket extension, or can you splice some new wire inline to make it reach the filter?
