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Old 02-08-2015, 03:07 PM   #21
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If I read the flash codes right (did it twice) it went between a cam position sensor error and the error indicating cam or crank. I did the crank sensor on this car just a few months ago so guess I will try the cam. Will report back.
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Old 02-10-2015, 11:11 PM   #22
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Replaced the cam sensor, car ran fine for about 35 miles, SES light was coming and going. But then it came on and bam-ran like crap again. Came out after work, same thing. Ran flash codes (again) and it still shows cam sensor. BUT I noticed what I believe is code 16 (6 flashes) low voltage in system. Does this mean the alternator/voltage reg are going? Or some other elec component not allowing voltage to pass????? I am close to the end of my rope here. But then determined to solve it.
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Old 02-10-2015, 11:46 PM   #23
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Something else I noticed. I think I got a code 15 coolant temp sensor. Could this possibly throw a car this far out of whack???
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Old 02-11-2015, 12:32 AM   #24
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Do you have a multimeter?
If so you can test the battery'* charge, it should be around 12.65v while the car is not running.
If you have an auto-parts store nearby you could go to them, and they will usually check your battery, alternator, and voltage regulator for free, I know around here we have AutoZone, and they will do it for free.
A voltage drop issue could cause poor running because it could mess with the fuel pump, and or possibly the injectors, as well as make it seem like there are other sensor issues, so before going any further make sure the battery, and charging system are fine.
Be sure to ask them to do a complete charging system test.
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Old 02-11-2015, 05:51 PM   #25
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So, it flashed "12" 3X'*, then "15" 3X'*, then "16" 3X'*, then "41" 3X'*, and then flashed "12" 3X'* again?

That "16" can be a magic number, especially if the alternator is charging and the battery is ok......you could have a bad PCM/ECM......get the car to normal operating temp.......with it idling ok, take your fingers and tap the top of the PCM....if the engine stumbles, or acts up, the PCM is your problem....not a fool proof test.....nothing may happen, and the PCM still could be bad....

FYI.....41 does not mean it'* a crank sensor problem....it means that anything in the circuit could be the problem, or anything that affects the sensor could be the problem....could be a bad sensor, connection to it, bad wiring/connection between it and the ICM, bad ICM, bad wiring/connection between ICM and PCM/ECM, or bad PCM/ECM......as for what affects the sensor, you could have a bad cam sensor magnet on the cam sprocket.......
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Old 02-11-2015, 07:17 PM   #26
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If the voltage is bad or the grounds it can cause a bunch of other issues
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Old 02-11-2015, 09:27 PM   #27
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Well I guess having the Battery and Alt checked are free, so why not? If I am seeing right, the ignition module takes a constant 12v off the battery, so I can see how if the Volts are fluctuating. Guess that'* next. I suppose rapping on the ECM can't hurt either.
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Old 02-11-2015, 09:55 PM   #28
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Let us know how the charging system checks out, if it is all ok, then give the ECM a few raps on it as Tech II suggested, even if it does not respond it still could have a failing circuit, the one that controls the injectors firing would be my guess, I could be wrong though.
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Old 02-12-2015, 08:53 PM   #29
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I'll try anything about now. Although I have 1 issue with the charging system theory. If the voltage is too low when I park it, how can it start the next day and run fine for whatever amount of time, if you follow my drift. That said, I'll take the free road and get this stuff checked.
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Old 02-12-2015, 09:42 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hans2112 View Post
I'll try anything about now. Although I have 1 issue with the charging system theory. If the voltage is too low when I park it, how can it start the next day and run fine for whatever amount of time, if you follow my drift. That said, I'll take the free road and get this stuff checked.
You have a valid point, it sounds like something may be heating up, and having issues from heat-soak, that could be a circuit in the ECM, or wiring somewhere like the Crank Sensor to ICM, like tech II mentioned.
Does the problem seem to only occur after the car has ran long enough to heat up?
The answer may already be in the thread, but I have a migraine at the moment, and cannot go back and read it all over.
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