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Old 12-01-2014, 11:58 AM   #691
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Originally Posted by jwfirebird View Post
i would inspect the steering gear while someone moves the wheel, the pitman should move without any play following the input from the shaft. the pitman and idler like to wear out on that type of setup too, any wierd movement and it needs replaced. he half tons are the same design and i had to replace everything from the steering gear out, except the drag link it doesnt wear, at 160k when i got it. dont put alot of miles on mine so i just got the whole ebay kit like a 120 or so with ball joints, end links, everything in the steering, just had to get the gear box, at advance with the p20 20% off
Thanks Justin. Doing some reading a lot of S10 ZR2 owners have moved to the GM 1 ton idler arm:

1 Ton Idler Arm Adapter idler arm frame pivot out of a duramax (Moog # K6723) and arm from a 1998 GM K3500 (Moog # K6447)
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Old 12-01-2014, 02:55 PM   #692
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if i had a 4wd with 35inch tires i might worry about it, not a stock one with stock tires i wouldnt worry about, its just a matter of having 180k. i seriously doubt if you get a standard replacement that it wont outlive the rest of the truck.

there was a couple guys running s10 blazers in the group i used to go off roading with, one had a lt1 with 35s and the other the stock 4.3 with 33s, both were beat to death constantly. they hold up surprisingly well. only the one with the lt1 and 35s ever broke the front suspension. it was only once, but i broke the ball joints on one and the wheel came off. that was a fun fix 5 muddy miles from any road.
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Old 12-23-2014, 06:31 PM   #693
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Did something the other day that I normally do not do. Drive my CSC. I pulled it out of the shed for the first time in months. It is running pretty good.







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Old 12-24-2014, 03:13 AM   #694
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well, last night i came home right after mom. noticed the twilight sentinel was only lighting up the fender mounted tail lights. told her turn on you're headlights. no trunk lights at all. popped the trunk, and found all the wires but one broken. with how they broke, im not sure if it was sabotage or just the common w body wire break.

anyway, i got out the butane soldering iron, walked my butt out there and fixed er up. good as new, and now its got more wire, so it coils up instead of kinking.

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Old 12-24-2014, 07:43 AM   #695
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Nate- Car looks very good & clean I am surprised you have such good weather to drive it!

Jason- Nice work! I see your getting some use out of that butane torch!

I think I am going to have to do some soldering on the PA again.
My AC clutch is not engaging and I think where I spliced in the new diode connector & clutch wires, something'* up again..darn. Checked fuse that aint it.
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Old 12-24-2014, 09:20 AM   #696
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little bitty wires and cheap loom for something that has to bend all the time. another cheap GM thing
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Old 12-24-2014, 10:24 AM   #697
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I had an 04 Buick century that had that same problem.
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Old 12-25-2014, 03:10 AM   #698
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incredibly stupid design. art- might want to take a hair dryer to the temp sensor in you're grille. my compressor wont kick under 40*F. thanks to the fantastic gm electronic climate control.

also it might have been smart to say its an 02 century. seems common on these because they dont have a conventional hinge. stupid double hinge with lift struts.
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Old 12-25-2014, 06:23 AM   #699
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Thanks Jason on the 40F warning. It has been cold below that. Still make no sense why you cant dry the inside of a damp car at 38F go figure.
It was working fine before, still it may be the crappy wiring, and if I do get to it/ the spring time, I will rip the heck of it and start over until the darm compressor does go again.
Bad local too a real PITA bending over trying to access wiring for 1 hour +
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Old 12-26-2014, 11:41 AM   #700
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Regular ac stuff doesn't like the cold. on the units we have that run in the winter they have compressor heaters and special oil and the new big ones have a defrost cycle they run once in a while
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