Lol in the mid 90s you were like 6 year old

We have a 96 Grand Voyager SE, a very good car once we got a new transmission

Ok. Today I went to look at it again more closely. Still couldn't test drive it though (no one answered the phone).

And I noted a few things...

The tread on the tires are pretty low. Looks like they will need to be replaced VERY soon.

The windshield is cracked. Although I didn't notice it before until now.

There is a full size spare in the bed and it lookslike its never been used.

Dual gas tanks. Hmmmm never had it before.

Some rust spots but nothing terrible.

Price is $1500 now.

Should I run? If it runs fine should I make a lower offer?

Opinionate!

$1000 sounds about right to me.

ok just thinking here. What would be the cost of a new windshield and 4 tires?

I was also talking with a co-worker and he says that there is electrical problems with the F-150s. Is it true or BullShiz? And when I DO look at it. is there anything I should be weary of?

1 More thing. Earlier I said that there is a 87-90 Dakota for $650 that also has my interest. What should I look for in that? Is there a motor/transmission thats crappy? lasts forever if taken care of? Remember the F-150 is $1500-$1550 (dunno exactly he has 2 FS signs with those prices on it)

Disk-us

The only wiring problems the F150'* really have are either cause by corosion or rodents. Keep in mind that the f150 changed very little over 17 years. I've no wiring problems in my 94. There is one recall out that could cause a wiring fire but you can avoid that by disconnecting the cruise control brake pressure sensor; its the only sensor on the master cylinder - just unplug it till you get the recall work done.

The 93 will be speed density (barometric pressure based pcm) instead mass airflow. The 5.0 is a solid motor, typically goes for over 200k miles, but it can have issues on cylinder #8; thats where the pvc dumps and can damage the intake valve. Many people relocate the pvc tubing to dump to the vacuum tree to spread the load to all cylinders. The 5.0 usually needs a plenum gasket by 100kmiles.

The tranny to avoid is the early version of the e4od so be sure to check the sticker in the drivers door jam (e=e4od, a=aod) and to ask if its been rebuilt. check the tailshaft for leaks and move on to the rear differential.

Check the oil pan for leaks. Drive it for a bit and check again. Often too the valve covers will leak out the backside and down the back of the engine and look like an oil pan leak. Wipe the side of the oil pan after its been off for 5 minutes. Wait 5 and wipe it again. If you see more oil on the rag then you might have the corroding oil pan syndrom and oil is leaking out small holes in the pan that you can't really see. the pans they use like to corroded from the inside out.

Rust, the main problems for F150'*. Check the frame, rear springs & mounts. Check the gas tanks & Straps. On the subejct of gas tanks, since you have dual tanks you want to make note of starting lvl'*; drive for a bit on one tank then switch over to the other. lvl on the tank should be the same as when you started off. Drive for a bit more and then check the lvl of the first tank which should be ths same. Dual tanks sometimes has the problem of one tank pumping into the other tank.

Front end, just drive it and make left and right turns. if the steering wheel comes back to straight by itself then the balljoints are likely good. If it stays turned you'll need new ones.


The 93 may also be R12 instead of R134 - Another negotiating point.

Geez...there is an entire bottle of Heinz 57 in here...so many ingredients :?

If I were a kid that A) Was just starting out in the world, B) Already had a decent ride and just needs a work beater, and C) Needs this said beater to be reliable for the most part, and can easily obtain parts for, than I would go with a Dakota.

My reasons why:

1) Easiest of them all to do self-diagnostics on. Key on-off-on-off-on, check engine light flashes stored codes.

2) Easy to get parts. Even the 2.5 liter is shared with damn near all the FWD cars Chrysler put out at that time. The 3.9 is near bullet-proof if well taken cared of, and easy to work on. The Vortec V6 GM used has that fuel manifold issue that is a bear to work on if it malfunctions. The Dodge 3.9? Just six injectors and a Holley TB. Plus every junkyard should have any part you are looking for.

3) Easy to mod. Yes, the 318 is an easy fit as Shelby used that motor in the first years of the Dakota. Meaning you can use factory mounts to put a V8 in it when it comes time to, instead of having to buy a kit from a vendor. The 360 is a stroked-up 318. The 3.9? A 318 with two less cylinders.

Dakotas were designed from the onset to be as simple as possible, but just as rugged. If you want a good indication of durability, on any vehicle, take a good look at what the military uses, particularly the Air Force and Navy. They hold onto their vehicles for a LONG time, and generally will go to DRMO when, and only when, they are good for nothing else but parts.