There'* no issues with it at all. Remove the heatshield, then the TB and SC.

Do you have a service manual? You need one.

can't find one around here for the ssei just the other models

Chilton'* #28200 for under $20 will do you just fine for now.

I just changed a coupler a couple of weeks ago on a Park Ave. a couple of weeks ago, so I thought I should pass along a few troubles I ran into. It was my first time to work on one of these cars so these might be obvious to someone with more experience but they wasted a lot of my time.

First I wasted a good 45 minutes looking for the fuel pump fuse so that I could relieve the fuel pressure. Couldn't find it in the fuse panel under the dash, wasn't mentioned in the owners manual, couldn't find it in the Factory service manual, or in the main fuses under the hood. I finally just tried to drain it via the service valve but hardly any came out. Ended up just putting a rag under the connectors and disconnecting and very little dripped out there either. So in my mind releiving the fuel pressure is not a big issue just have a rag to catch what drains out and another to cover so it doesn't spray when you disconnect.

Second I wasted 15 minutes trying to get the electrical connector off of the EGR selenoid. I pulled the little green lock up (took it completely out actually) but couldn't get the connector to budge. Found that there is a small tab on the front that needs to be pressed in before it can be pulled.

Third the heat shield must be removed in order to remove a nut holds the throttle body bracket. The top nuts are 1/2 inch, and the nut underneath is 9/16 inches. I didn't have any trouble getting it off but the trick is to leave the heat shield nearly in position when you put the bracket back on. If you let it go too far down by the firewall you can't slide it back up with the stud in place and if you do like I did and have it completly out it won't fit past the bracket to put it back in place.

Fourth put the SC oil in before you put it on the engine, or have a small funnel handy. I forgot to put in the oil first and had to go find a funnel that would fit between the alt. bracket and SC.

For the record, your bolts and nuts are not fractional. They're metric. Secondly, you don't even need to disconnect the fuel rail from the supply and return lines. Remove 3 or 4 nuts, pull it up, lay it over the maxifuse relay center. Wish you'd found us sooner. We could have saved you some time and trouble.

Can you put your year and model in your signature? By your description, it sounds like a 91-95 as opposed to 96+.

It was on a 92 Park Ave. Ultra (only 67k original miles).

I got instructions here first, I removed the fuel rail to take it to the bench and replace o-rings assumed he would want to do the same. I also didn't want to test the flexability of the 15 year old plastic hoses.

I assumed that they used a mixture of metric and SAE like an older Monte Carlo I had worked on, so when the metric wrench slipped I switched to an SAE and it fit nice and tight. Sorry wasn't trying to spread false info, just what worked for me.

He is talking about a 93 isn't he?

I was talking about YOURS. I had to figure out what you were working on from your description. It helps if you put your car in your signature by editing your profile.

Got it done runs better then when I bought it, and added a CAI, thanks for all the help guys....