Rob & I have tried to Warn them BEFORE they bought it.

And look what happened.

Thats it that the last thing i have to say about this whole thing.

must have been a different tread, because this one started AFTER he bought the kit

BANDIT. You were told by an Admin of this Forum not to post further in this topic. Disciplinary action WILL come next if you do it again.

I'm sorry if all of us came across as putting down the original posters product. I think all of us were trying to warn him from a safety standpoint, that'* all.

I wish the original poster the best of luck with his installation. To anyone buying this kit, please do check the seals and grommets on the ballast to ensure water cannot penetrate those ballasts. I really don't want to see anyone have a fire.

Also make sure there is a fuse for each ballast in line with the wiring harness supplied by the kit. If there is no fuse, modify the harness and install one.

GROUP HUG!

Let'* get some of those pics up and see what they look like!

(I.E. let'* get back to what the author started this topic for)

you may want to seal your ballasts with something or cover them so that they cannot get water in them. Here is a very good article from HID planet on how to waterproof your ballasts. http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/view...t=seal+ballast

One last thing... Make sure the end of the burners, where the return wire is, isn't too close to the metal shield in front of them. You can get arcing if it'* too close.

Also, check the amount of glare they produce. Squat down to windshield-level about 50 feet in front of the car at night, and see if you can stand looking next to the car. Aiming the lights lower isn't going to help the glare, it'll only make your vision worse.

The top of the "hot spot" should be about 2-3" below the center of the headlight lens at 25 feet. It may not be very clear on a DOT headlight, but it'* a place to start.

If people start flashing their bright at you frequently, you might wanna take that as a hint that they're kinda dangerous, and are producing too much glare.

Fortunately, you got the 4300K color temp, any higher results in more eye strain, more glare, and less road visibility, especially in wet weather.

And, make sure you definately use an upgraded wiring harness to feed power to the ballasts, coming right from your battery. The initial current draw is much more than 2-3 amps while the burners are warming up, and is usually too much for stock wiring. It can damage the ballasts if they don't have enough current to keep the output up.

Edit: Keep your stock bulbs with you, just in case you need to swap back to avoid a ticket, or if they fail. I used to do that when I had the stock-type housings in before the retrofit.

I installed the kit today, I'll get pics/video of the lights tomorrow night, heres pics of the mounted ballasts. The zip ties aren't needed, but I want to make sure they don't move at all.

A few pics of the lights, I haven't adjusted them yet.