I see what the flow chart says, after reading it again, but it just doesn't make sense to me. Not being argumentative, I just don't follow it.

Take a look at your harness, terminal E is attached to BAT+, that is the power for all your solenoids.....Brown wire....

Terminal B is a yellow wire with a black tracer........that is grounded electronically by the ECM when the key is on, and the trans is in P....

Terminal A is a light green wire.......that is grounded electronically by the ECM when the key is on, and the trans is in P....

Make sure you are on the correct terminals by checking the corresponding color of wire to it...
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First, let'* see if you have power at term E....key on, engine off in P, ground one end of the test light and touch the other end to terminal E....does it light? It should .......

Then attach test light from E to A and then from E to B....in both cases it should light up, does it?

There is only one terminal with BAT power in the harness, at term E, and that is 12 volts......Terminal F has a 5 volts sensor voltage......Terminal G is a sensor ground.......the rest of the terminals are ELECTRONIC grounds, meaning they only become grounds when activated by the ECM...

The flow chart is self explanatory, what don't you understand?

Tech II. If I probe E and ground to the negative battery terminal I get no light. If I probe E and probe F (yl/bl) I get a light. If I probe E and G (bl) I get no light.

Probe E and any other than F, no light.

Probe F and every other terminal, individually, I get a light and at 5 volts. Probing F and G the light is twice as bright.

Seems very odd that E and F will light but E and negative battery terminal will not.

Do you have an opinion on what in the world is going on?

I have taken the ECM out and to be polite - what a piece of junk. There is absolutely no indication anywhere, on any of the 3 connectors, as to what connector it is or what pin it is. In looking at the wiring diagrams provided by carfixer007, what appears to be connector pin numbers are like A1, A2, B4, etc. Nothing that I can find correlates to the ECM in that manner.

Unless I can find something that makes some sense of the pin numbers vs a wiring diagram - I just can't believe it.

You have a bad connection at your neg battery terminal......ground it against a good clean nut/stud.....

You do not want to go from E to F......E is 12 volts....F is 5 volts........could possibly damage the ECM....

You should only be testing E to A and E to B......

Take your test light and touch the pos and neg terms or your battery.....when you go E to A or E to B, it should be the same brightness as across your battery........

Terminals B and F have the same wire color, make sure you know which is which....

For those interested in where and how to access the ECM. It is located on the passenger side under the dash. There is a plastic (under the dash) cover which starts at the passenger door, extends across the car to just above the gas pedal. There are about 4 9/16 screw/bolts which have to be removed, plus one wingnut which is in the driver'* foot well area up against the firewall. Once this cover is removed, the ECM with it'* three connectors of wires is visible tucked up under the dash against the firewall. You will notice the ECM is slipped up and inside of a white plastic holding case.

The 3 wire connectors are almost impossible to remove from the ECM while it is up and inside the white plastic holder. I suggest leaving the wire connectors as is, pushing up slightly on the ECM and then pushing the lower part of the white hold case up against the firewall. If you look at the part of the white holding case which you can see fairly well, the case has a tab that extends over the edge of the ECM and holds the ECM up and inside the white holding case. That white tab, once pushed toward the firewall, will free the ECM. The white tabs have to be pressed across the entire back of the ECM in order for the ECM to drop down.

Once the ECM begins to drop down, just work it out of the white plastic holding case. You can then position it so you can see how the connectors are separated from the ECM. In my opinion, unless you know how the connectors are attached to the ECM, it would be virtually impossible to get the connectors loose.

Once you have the ECM out, you will notice one side of each wiring connector has a gray plastic latch which snaps over the connector of the ECM. If you press the gray plastic and pull up the latch will move away from the ECM and allow you to remove the connector from the ECM. Just pulling the connector off the ECM is very very difficult. I suggest using a large blade flat tip screwdriver, pressing the gray latch and using the side/end of ECM as a fulcrum just pry the connector, gently, out of the ECM.

And, I guess I owe an apology regarding the ECM. If you look very very very closely to the inside of each connector on the ECM, you will be able to make out in one corner of the connector an A1 with numbers running down the row to 16. One the bottom of that connector you will see a B, but no numbers. You just have to match the bottom to the top row to know what number you are dealing with. The other two connectors are numbered the same way but are C and D, and then E and F. Pay attention to how the female connector goes into the male connector to get the right pin to pin connection. If you have a good wiring diagram, which carfixer007 provided earlier in the thread, then you should be able to trace wiring.

One thing rather aggravating regarding the location of the ECM is that in order to troubleshoot the transaxle connector you have to run a wire from the passenger footwell to the left front of the engine compartment.

What I found: I have .7 ohms continuity in all the transaxle connector wiring except for the Brown E wire and the Black G wire. Both wires have splices in them before getting to the ECM, plus the E wire is also powered by a fuse at 5C which I have to check.

I will continue tracing tomorrow.

Thanks Tech II, I made a post before seeing this regarding the ECM and what I found as far as continuity. I will look into these comments tomorrow. Thanks again.

I'm back and in my right mind. @EarlD I hope I didn't send you down a rabbit hole. I was running on fumes. I got several hours of sleep and am much better now.
What @Tech II says is the right stuff and should help you. Also, DO NOT probe the 'F' or 'G' terminals as a voltage feed back onto the ECM can blow it.
Follow his steps and let us know what you find.

carfixer007, no problem whatsoever. Matter of fact, I don't know what I would have been able to do without your assistance. I have learned a lot with this whole process.

It appears I have found the problem. The car runs great and shifts just like it should. THERE WAS NO 5C fuse - which controls the transaxle.

After checking the transaxle connector, the wiring harness, and checking the continuity to the ECM and finding continuity to all wires except the E and G the logical next step would be to find where the breakdown in the E wire was. The wiring diagram leads to the 5C fuse. I get under the driver'* dash to check the fuse and there is no 5C fuse in the fuse box.

The whole story - I felt that something wasn't right with the way the transaxle was working. I take it to a transmission repair shop. They drive the car, give me 3 different codes which the ECM is throwing and tell me while I am replacing the solenoid which is bad I might consider just going ahead and getting the whole transmission rebuilt. I decide to do a little thinking on that due to the age and miles on the car.

Researching the codes the shop gave me, one possibility was that the transaxle just needed to be serviced. I changed the transmission fluid and filter - same results with the car. I go through all the steps recommended in this thread and get to the "check the fuse" moment - it isn't there. Go figure.

Thanks to carfixer007 and Tech II for all the great direction, information and guidance. Many many thanks.

What happened to the fuse? Oh well, glad you got it working.

Glad you got it fixed finally. I was a bit intrigued you didn't check it when I first posted it, but, to each his own. Did it clear up all the codes?