Really noticeable first thing when cold. CLick-ity going on!
When hood is open engine seems quiet. Stand out side the car around passenger side..ya you hear it.
With a decent set of speakers you can hear it, especially when I go into wheel well. (about 7 second mark )

http://vid996.photobucket.com/albums...pskq9jdpik.mp4
Wish the microphone was better.
Any thoughts?

I can't hear much of it, but it doesn't seem like a very big noise. I don't know how fast the engine is idling in that vid, but I am guessing in the bottom end, but small, like a wrist pin or something.

When was the last oil change? How many miles on the engine?

Randall, got about 114k miles. Oil change very frequent, last one had 2200 miles on oil when I changed it. In video has 600 miles on synthetics.
In a way it does sound like a bottom end tic of some sort.
Could there be something on the passenger side, exhaust manifold for instance that may be allowing noise to bleed out?
In reality the drive belt should be removed, and restated cold on lift as well, to ensure there is no pulley reflected noise, to possibly be able to pin point things better.

I can hardly hear it either, it has to be something though, because when it is your car you hear it purr daily, and you can tell when something is a tad off, hopefully you can figure out what it is soon.

You know, I listened to it again, and I still have no idea what it is, because today the ears suggest lifter noise.

I had a lifter tick on the PA when I got it, that was detectable when warm. Almost 8 years, 40k miles, and countless floggings later, it is now a tap, again, after being driven for a while (last heard after 50 mile trip, running 80+ mph).

I imagine a seafoam treatment isn't the worst idea though, but also I was reading that viscosity concerns could cause cold concerns too.

Why such frequent oil changes, especially with synthetic? What is your schedule and why?

Also, if faced with this issue, it'* not something I would run out and try fixing immediately. I would try to better understand it and see what is happening, and dig deeper if the opportunity presents itself (like UIM failure for example).

I change the oil frequently, severe schedule= city/idle, & stop & go type driving.
UIM is all good and fresh. Was clean inside engine when UIM/LIM was done.
Spark plugs have a normal burn appearance, Dont think any need for SeaFoam, as I run it on the highway once a week and blow the dirt out.
I am going to monitor this noise more often now, after I first start it and see if it gets any worse. The noise is much more noticeable & pronounced in real life.
I might try to get the camera with remote & place it under the car & see if I can get recording better, if it ever stops raining here.

I'd get a mechanics stethoscope, if it is lifter tap you should be able to hear it if you put the stethoscope on the heads.
I just got me one of these to add to my tools, hopefully I'll never need it, but I got it just in case.

Flexplate?

I was referring to the crankcase treatment, unless they have stopped recommending that. Several times I have dumped it in the crankcase, and had the oil changed soon after (2-500 miles), it does a good job cleaning things. At least I assume it does because the oil comes out nasty looking when I do it.

If you do it, just don't leave it in too long.

Youtube, it can be your best friend or your worst enemy with bad info. There is a mechanic that addresses engine, lifter tick with carb cleaner and an engine flush. He took the suspect rockers off and sprayed carb cleaner through the tubes into the lifters, let soak, put back together and run Gunk engine flush for 5 mins. My 1989 3800 had constant slight tick, this procedure worked for me, use thread lock on rocker bolts. I obsess over engine noises.