Be careful using carb cleaner on the sensors, it'* not good to get it on the plastic part of the sensors, it can possibly damage the plastic.

Once you are able to get a scanner on it, get any codes, and see if you can get any MAF readings at idle, for warmed up/closed loop mode, without you pumping on the gas pedal, granted you cannot get exact info on how it is performing without an oscilloscope, but you can still see if the grams/sec are close to normal.

Also look at your fuel trims as well.

Get a little penetrating oil on those MAF screws, let it soak a while, then soak them a little more, and get it out, then use some MAF specific cleaner to clean it off, the MAF cleaner is good to have, I recommend using it on the MAF'* thermistors every time you replace the air filter.
Also, when you check the MAF, be sure the tip of it is not loose, or easily popping off.

Okay Update for today'* Work
Idle if FIXED with no miss but then spits when giving gas is not

Okay I have a new video for today as well for another visual sight of what is going on.
Today I pulled of the 3 sensors off of the Throttle Body
1) Throttle position Sensor - Swapped it with one from the new motor
2) The sensor right above it I believe something to do with cold start - This one wouldn't budge cleaned it with carb cleaner and bulled it close to all the way out but back in a little.
3) Idle Air Control - This had allot of carbon build up on one side of all the little coils/wires like light bulb, Clean but just spraying with carb cleaner.

After this started car and idled like a charm warm already when started and at 750-100 RPMs ... PERFECT
3800 Idle Fixed But still Spitting with gas - YouTube

Now I give it gas and still has the spit. So this HAS to be it guys. well I'm hoping lol
tomorrow is payday and one of my days off this week.
I will be putting 10 gallons of gas in the take with STP full system fuel cleaner
Replace Fuel Filter. along with all the other tune up things listed before still planned to have done tomorrow. If this doesn't fix it, or bring most of it out I will be stumped. Knowing nothing to do but start checking injectors.
Is there any kind of sensor that could effect this? it has the same bog/spit like not getting gas while in drive.

Attached a pic of the sensor on top of the throttle body, this is the one I felt could be the culprit, but it sounds like the TPS had issues since your idle is fixed, I still think that MAF may be bad, but I am not sure enough to say go spend 150.00 on a new one, I'd at lest get it cleaned with MAF Cleaner, and get the new fuel filter in, then see how it runs then, to me it sounds like something is keeping it from getting enough fuel, which could be anything like a weak/failing fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, or dirty injectors.


Did a little more research on your issue, and found one other person that described almost your exact issues, even the tach jumping while in park, and gas is given, they also had fine idle, but rough idle when gas was given.
I'm not sure if their fix will be your fix, but they ended up replacing the crank sensor.


Has anybody else heard of a crank sensor causing his current issues?

I Had already had the TPS swapped before today but wanted you all to know that it was. The IAC seemed real bad when I couldn't open or close it without allot of force until I had cleaned it and the MAF seemed like it caused the most help.
I did see that about the crank sensor as well but had no idea how it could affect or how to change. I know where it is located and I have a spare on from the old motor. I am having the same feelings though that something is keeping it from getting the fuel that it needs. I've had times where it will take the fuel and go fine and then most of all time it spits like not getting gas.

The plan tomorrow was to fill the fuel and change fuel filter. if no change then to start checking injectors by unplugging one at a time seeing which caused most problems since these are $90 a piece. after that gas has me stumped again till I can check codes, and no parts store or shop has the right scanner for this ODB 1.5.
my MAF was clean as can be on those coils and could not notice what looked like any bad spots in it and like I said it idles smooth as can be now with no miss at all. sat around the exhaust listening for like 5 mines and don't think I heard but one or two random spits. Again this car sat for 3 years before I had the time to take it off my dad'* hands and put the motor in it.

I will also look around about the crank sensor as soon as I'm done with fuel ideas tomorrow and before I start not he other tune up items

If you have a multimeter you can ohm out the injectors, I think mine all were around 11.5 -12 ohm'* or so, yours may not be the same, but look for any of them to be way off from the others, take the power connector off of each injector one by one, and check the ohms from the two leads coming from the injector.
They could still be clogged, but if you find one way off from the others, then you'd want to replace it, I think I paid around 40.00 for my injectors, if it comes down to an injector, then I'll look for the place I got mine from and give you the link.

Still thinking about what with the CKP(crank sensor) could cause those issues.
I tried to find info on the CKP for you, about what all it does, and can effect, if you read this wiki link on it, it does sound like it could cause your issue, still I would like to see what some others think.

Crankshaft position sensor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
""If the engine is revved up with a bad or faulty sensor, it may cause misfiring, motor vibration or backfires. Accelerating might be hesitant, and abnormal shaking during engine idle might occur. In the worst case the car may not start.""

I'll go back over this thread after I get some sleep, and see if I missed anything, good luck when working on it later today!

a wearing out ckp is more heat related, runs fine cold but as the sensor gets hot the engine may quit or not refire if you shut it off to get coffee or something

It Does This Cold or Hot not just warm, I also notice the IAC isn't opening or closing like it should like I said I put it in when car was warm and put it in and idled fine now starting I got to give it gas and let easily let her down in rpm to keep running until she gets warm.
The IAC couldn't cause this though could it? I wouldn't think.
But it no longer backfires and idles smooth as can be one warm and IAC is in correct position for. I'm headed back out there now to work some more will have more updates tonight.

if there was a good bit of crud in the iac, and you mess with it it will take a while of idling to adjust itself. have you driven it a bit with some idling?

Okay Everyone it'* been a little bit seem I've had any updates. I've been managing a store out of town and I've been diving the Buick to get a better idea of what is going on. The Car RUNs and DRIVES GREAT beside not being able to put my foot in it. It almost feel like the car is cutting itself off in gear or in park. I was thinking maybe tranny not downshifting right so I put her in first and tried to ease up to 3k RPM and same thing just spits and cuts herself off.
My gas idea went away after going through this take of gas and filling her back up with 91 Octane and she still cuts off.
I ordered the ODB1 16 Pin connector so I can check engine codes. I've looked around and it just seems like a sensor cutting the car off. So far the sensors I have found that can do this is coolant temp, knock sensor, and crankshaft. I haven't done a whole lot of research but these are the ones imp seeing the most.
I have also noticed my low coolant light will come on the dash but she is full. I've checked after almost every time of driving and it nv moves just light will come on for a while and then go away.
I don't think I will be just starting to switch sensors until I get this cable and see if it just tells me what is off on it, Don't have a whole lot of money to put into it right now.

Okay I'm 90% positive I found a big problem. I believe the ECU is bad now.
I got my cable to check my codes today and every single thing is going haywire. Jumping from low number to high number. running valves open close and loops just switching. shows failed alternator and every single code is being thrown on it. I checked it with TunerPro RT and the 95 Buick park avenue 3800 adx file or whatever it is. I also know my way around computers and am 100% positive drivers are installed correctly.

NOW the weird kicker---
While my connector is connected to the scanner with or without USB to the laptop the car will run past 3000 4000 in fact will redline while driving in gear. all items on the dash are showing up correctly except speedometer and odometer are not working. (hopefully just a cable and not the computer). As soon as I disconnect the scanner end piece the OBD connector the car will go back to spitting and not passing 3k RPMs. If so I have a temp fix to save up the money for a ECU. Is it just me or does this seem like and ECU to everyone else? This is just the weirdest thing ever to me, but I know electronics work in the weirdest ways too.