95 Park Avenue Motor Swap - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 06-04-2013, 12:34 PM   #21
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I have the vacuum on there all correctly there is like only 3 lines in this car. i also replace the rubber lines fue to dry rot. But the throttle body had sat for 2 years not on the motor. i think its one of the sencors but dont want to guess n check because for these three sencors new is about $300
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Old 06-04-2013, 01:54 PM   #22
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the sensors, throttle body all can leak, best to check with carb cleaner and a running engine
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:00 PM   #23
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I check fuel pressure is was around 50psi i found a vac lin to assesories that was closing in on itself and i replaced on to the purge that didnt look so hot. I tried to get gas out but has a screen and if you remove line from bottom has somethiung that prevents it from coming out too. it now runs smoothly cold up till it gets warm while getting warm RPMs go up and not drop like its supposed to. Then when at normal temp it will start to spit and miss. i now notices my lamp monitor that shows all lights that are out, all the light are flashing while the car is running and while off and key in on position.
Still waiting to get my cable to check the codes but it now seems electrical to me
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:04 AM   #24
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I also did check around the throttle body and sencor with starter fluid and there was no raise in RPMs as if there would be a leak. I have been reading around for misfires when car gets to temp and came across this forum
https://www.gmforum.com/buick-172/95...-fixed-299236/
I think tomorrow I am going to test my coils and see if maybe they have something to do with this. I doubt anything to do with the high RPM but maybe why im getting a mis when it is warmed up
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Old 06-05-2013, 06:49 AM   #25
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I can't think of anything besides something that was installed incorrectly or a bad vac line that would cause this high idle.
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Old 06-06-2013, 12:37 AM   #26
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Okay this Post is a little long but I was off today and had all day. Basically from time I woke till now, 10:30 tonight.
Friday is getting closer and closer. need money to really continue.
Updates for today are
Now the car runs better and doesn't feel like it going to just fall on its face when gas is even touched. it is somewhat drivable now and even has times where it almost doesn't ever spit while in drive. Again i said times it also got where it just feels like its missing the whole time. The gas in now finally almost all used up to put fresh in, the gas light is now on. I no longer think it is a computer issue, lights and all straightened out.

New problems found
Today I swapped the Ignition Control Module and coils from my old motor.
Water pump has a drip that slowly comes out but the temp is still constant 200 ish
I got idle to come straighten out but just giving it gas and holding it until the spit just stop. It came out and idles at 2500. but if given allot of gas it will start to spit again and if the gas is messed with enough it will eventually drop to around 1600 RPMs and stay with no spit or misfire. as soon as the gas is touched it will either jump to 2500RPMs or bounce all around.
When I first put the motor in after about 2 hours of running I noticed the front exhaust manifold cherry red, I let it be for the night and next day filled coolant full when i noticed it low and haven't noticed since. Just still feels real warm under the hood.
Then today at the end of the day when it was finally dark outside I could see that the exhaust manifold had been glowing and it'* just very faint and cooled down to normal color within the minute.

I have a few videos today but only uploading one that shows allot of whets going on and after the car has been sitting and running for about 12 hours.
One it when I first change ICM and Coils from old motor and it still spit
Second is actually when it kicked out of the spitting and feeling like it would die when given gas.
and the third is the one uploaded and here is a link.

3800 Series 2 Weird idle and spit - YouTube

if you feel seeing the others will help let me know I can upload them as well.

What my new plans are
Tomorrow I am going to take the manifold off the front since it is the one I can tell is glowing other is hard to see but looks fine. then I am going to drop the pipe off the manifold and leave it off and inspect the insides of the manifolds for anything possibly clogging them. I am then going to leave the pipe Cadillac converter and muffler off of the car and try and start it to see if there is any difference and maybe it'* being clogged from pipe if manifolds are clean.
After that IDK I won't have allot of time before I work all night tomorrow.

Friday, I will be buying some engine flush new oil and filter, fuel filter, fill the gas with new gas and injecter cleaner, buy the ALDL ODB1 with ODB2 Shell to USB cable to get CEL codes, dripping coolant and fill again with antifreeze and better guessing of 50/50, replace the cracked coolant temp sensor, water pump and gasket, and then start where the codes take me.
Does anyone have any other idea of what this could be I been putting allot of hours into it and feel like I'm getting nowhere after this all that is left to inspect if the Intake. I been across all ignition and car even show that it can idle without a misfire. but the slightest touch of the gas and its haywire again. I will be going over the exhaust tomorrow and will have to wait for the cable to check codes. But don't want to sit there and do nothing waiting
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Old 06-06-2013, 04:47 AM   #27
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Have you taken the PCV Valve out and shaken it to see if it still rattles?

Have you cleaned the MAF sensor?
Normally a MAF sensor will not cause high idle at start, but I have heard once the car is warmed up/in closed loop, if bad the MAF can cause erratic idle.

Have you taken the IAC out and examined it?


Are you sure you do not have any vacuum leaks from the intake manifold area?
Looking at your mileage, you are right around, if not above the mileage that the lower intake manifold gasket fails, if you have never replaced this, and plan to keep the car, I'd consider replacing that lower intake manifold gasket with the aluminum framed Fel-Pro LIM gasket Kit, and be sure to change the EGR stove pipe to the reduced diameter stove pipe, it comes in the LIM Kit.

Since you are running it so low on fuel changing the fuel filter is a good idea.
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Old 06-06-2013, 05:58 AM   #28
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I Know Exactly what you are talking about that is why I put this motor into this car. This motor was out of a wreck buick not one with UIM failure, and has only 81k miles. I plan on replacing that after I find what is causing my car to do this, this engine had only been in the car for less than a week i inspected gasket when it was just block heads and UIM on and they all looked fairly nice. I figured it could wait untill i get it running and legal and then a check before replacing that.

As for PCV Valve is it the one with a sensor on the newer ones and mine the plasit screw on that is located on top left of UIM beside the Altenator. If so Yes it Rattles alot.

As for MAD Sensor No i havent Cleaned it the screws feel like they would brake if i try to take them off.

And heres a list of all vac lines i have went over and checked.
1 The Fuel Pressure Regulater To The lower port of Throttle Body To thePurge Canister.
2Other Side of purge cansiter goes twards the radiator then down then to other side by the battery then by motor mount then another rubber piese to another hose to firewall.
3Then Transmittion to Throttle Body.
4Then Middle of UIM to Brake Booster and little line to accesories.
Then there are the ones that look like for cruise and maybe when the ac is turned on to kick motor up a little but they are not of importance and dont look bad.

And The Fuel Filter was left out but on my list of items to buy firday for when I fill the tank up.
I might just take the IAC Sensor out and spray it down with some carb cleaner and see if that makes a difference. Thanks For The Input
My Idea of bad sensors are one of the 3 on the throttle body or O2 but i dont want to throw money on sensors till i can read my ODB Codes
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Old 06-06-2013, 08:47 AM   #29
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glowing exhaust is a symptom of a lean running engine not the cause. as mentioned check/ clean iac, clean the seat good, the way the engine is running has to be an unmetered air leak, or tps(much less likely). maf can cause this, any unmetered air after the maf, or the iac can leak air if the seat or cone is carboned up
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Old 06-06-2013, 12:21 PM   #30
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Okay ill be going out there no to start on some thing i will have an update this evening or later tonight after work
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