95 Park Avenue Motor Swap - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 05-03-2013, 05:43 AM   #1
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Default 95 Park Avenue Motor Swap

I Currently Have a 95 Park avenue with 160k new transmission with 3k and a seized engine.
I have been looking for a Used motor currently and have came across several newer 3800s, like year 2000.
I am currently trying to find out what different 3800s will work in my 95 Buick because I know they have made allot of changes year to year with this engine.
So far all I have found is around 95 year and have to have matching VIN K.
So if someone could let me know the years and car models with this engine t help my search for a cheap parts car or engine I would appreciate your time and help.
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Old 05-03-2013, 05:51 AM   #2
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Ok, so your VIN K is NON-supercharged. That makes it easier to narrow down the search. Here'* the easy part, 1995-2005 the Series 2 was made. So, you have a 10 year span in which to find an engine. The only thing you need is mainly the block. If you are doing the swap yourself, transfer everything over from YOUR engine to the new engine. Many of the sensors changed over the years and you need to keep it to your 95.

And BTW, do you know what seized your current engine? If its what I think it is, remove all the sparkplugs and turn the the engine over for about 15 seconds.
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Old 05-03-2013, 07:11 AM   #3
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Yes it'* not the ultra, and I have no clue what seized it. My guess is a rod bearing, when I pulled off the upper intake antifreezes was all around, I know these are bad with these by the EGR valve so it corrodes. Oil didn't look milky but that was only guess I had I noticed a know and oil pressure was going low. Had car towed to town, pops drove to shop. shop said while it was running it died and all they would recommend was a new motor.

And That AWSOME I found one in my area motor and transmission for 500.
I was thinking that all I needed to do but wanted to have a better opinion before I spent my money on this.
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:15 AM   #4
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more likely a lower intake gasket failure caused a hydro lock. if your rings and head gaskets are fine you, dont need a new engine. likely because the 3800 is tough. have someone test your compression to see if things are good in there. you may just need intake manifold and gaskets. there are write ups in the mechanical section on how
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:06 AM   #5
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I'm with Mike & Justin, do what Mike suggests, then have each cylinder compression tested, you may just need to replace the lower intake manifold gasket, and change the oil, and coolant.
The Fel-PRO Aluminum LIM Gasket kit comes with a reduced diameter EGR stove pipe, which eliminates the EGR causing a coolant leak, you can also plug the coolant ports, but if you replace the EGR stove pipe, IMO that is not really necessary.

If you find the compression is good, then let us know if you need suggestions for which parts to get.


Compression Test info/specs below.

The lowest reading cylinder should not be less than 70% of the highest and no cylinder reading should be less than 689 kPa (100 psi). Perform compression test with engine at normal operating temperature, spark plugs removed and throttle wide open.
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:48 PM   #6
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Alright that shouldn't be to hard when I get it back at the shop I'll be doing all the work this time so I need to hurry before some buys this motor if I do need.
Currently I have the UIM and LIM off the car and the lower manifold gasket was trashed. But I have no way of know how to unlock/seize the motor.
I'm not a mechanic by no means but always do my own work and this wouldn't be my first motor swap.
what is the best way to try and get your crank spinning again
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Old 05-03-2013, 02:00 PM   #7
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Remove your sparkplugs and use a screwdriver to jump the starter for about 10 seconds. Then your all set.

If your lower gaskets were garbage, then ya, you sucked coolant into your cylinders.
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Old 05-03-2013, 04:50 PM   #8
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I know I did have fluid on the cylinders. I tried to siphon some of it out after it first happened but with no prevail, didn't seem like much was coming out of the cylinders. possible just couldn't get it set in there right or not right cylinder full of fluid.
But I did get some fluid out of the ones I tried just not enough to keep it from starting in my opinion, may not run smooth at first but again may not of been the correct cylinders. I just got the car cleaned out and called tow truck to send to shop I will start on it and try to clean out the cylinders and test compression.
Thanks so much for the input this will save me so much time and money if I just need to replace lower intake gasket and upper intake manifold.
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:14 PM   #9
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We have seen a few members here over the years have the same issue just as you have. Purge the cylinders, install new gaskets and they are good as new.
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:14 PM   #10
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So finally assured the engine is siezed.
Engine will not try and crank, have uim and lim off and as i assumed the egr port was bad. Pulled all 6 plugs put a battery in her and got a click noice and nothing. tried to tap starter and had someone try and start it as i listened to the started and no noice.
I then removed the started and cut off the belt to try and spin the motor myself.
No prevail tried to turn engine both ways... nothing.
It may hahve been hydro locked originally but parents just let it sit over the years and was going to junk it so it may have siezed over time. But also like i said it had already started knocking when i pulled over and had it taken to the shop before it died on them mid troubleshooting.
So back to sqaure one going to call and hope this guy still has this motor
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