I finally did it! 1500w rms! - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


Audio (and aftermarket electronics) This is your place for alarms, remote starters, to brag about your system, exaggerate your db levels, or simply ask questions for stock or aftermarket audio. No Flames! (except from roasted amps)

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Old 11-21-2010, 09:00 PM   #21
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whats a VCM?
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Old 11-21-2010, 09:00 PM   #22
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voltage control module?
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Old 11-21-2010, 10:46 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raptor660 View Post
voltage control module?
Yep

Check out this video

[YT]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9TNpK3e-m5Q[/YT]
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Old 11-22-2010, 01:02 AM   #24
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Jeez, what kinda alt do Bonne'* have stock? I run a CS130d (105a advertised, apparently less) and with 1750RMS I was getting negligible drop with stock front batt, rear marine batt (just a generic g2, 1/0 power and grounds, and big 3 in 4 gauge.

It'* nice if you run a marine batt because they use threaded posts which also make for nice distribution blocks =P

I did not use an isolator, nor would I recommend it. It'* just another failure point and more cost. I did run two fuses though; one 18" from each batt. Fuse these for the maximum current your wire is rated for AND NO MORE (my wire is rated to 350, I run 325 amp fuses because I found them locally for cheap, and by cheap I mean free.) I also recommend a fuse by the batt on your run(*) to your amp(*) rated for the amps themselves (even if they're internally fused) but that may be a touch of paranoia.

If you're like me and don't use a sealed battery you will want a battery box. If the battery leaks without a box you will get yummy corrosive acid all over your trunk and you will soon have a holey trunk floor. Also batteries can release hydrogen gas when being charged, this is toxic and super-flammable.
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Old 11-22-2010, 02:04 AM   #25
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You don't need any of that crap. Stop being stubborn and just put another battery in the car before you burn everything in it. I swear Raptor, you are your own worse enemy. Causing yourself voltage drops like that and puttering around in the ways you do when all you need to do is do what was said to you months ago,.... makes me want to delete your permissions to be in this Section.
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Old 11-22-2010, 05:32 AM   #26
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Geez John! I already mentioned i am planning on adding a second battery. and after a little tweaking and tuning yesterday i dont have such severe voltage drop. I am taking action to make my charging system up to par
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Old 11-22-2010, 07:55 PM   #27
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Geez Raptor! You continuously have problems, drifting for one setup to another and all the while ignore the one, most important thing you lack continuously. OK, so the voltage drop isn't As serious as 8 volts now, (33% drop is CRITICAL and you going to damage everything, not just an amp). If yours was a 2000+ the car would just shut down. But you continue to putter and blindly run your electronics. Through almost every thread you have posted in this Section, you ignore basic guidelines and think you can tweak and tune around things you are deficient in and warned about. So I have to ask myself, "Do I really want a person who carries on this way with his own equipment giving advice to others?"
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:00 PM   #28
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I know a stout charging system is very important and should be first before a stereo system is installed in the first place. The only reason my charging system is lacking is because I have NO money... i havent spent any money on my system at all just keep selling and trading and upgrading. I will never tell anyone to ignore there voltage and put as large of a system in there car as possible. If i had the money my car would have 2 iraggi or Power Bastard alts, 2 batteries, ect ect.
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:04 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white4d96 View Post
Jeez, what kinda alt do Bonne'* have stock? I run a CS130d (105a advertised, apparently less) and with 1750RMS I was getting negligible drop with stock front batt, rear marine batt (just a generic g2, 1/0 power and grounds, and big 3 in 4 gauge.

It'* nice if you run a marine batt because they use threaded posts which also make for nice distribution blocks =P

I did not use an isolator, nor would I recommend it. It'* just another failure point and more cost. I did run two fuses though; one 18" from each batt. Fuse these for the maximum current your wire is rated for AND NO MORE (my wire is rated to 350, I run 325 amp fuses because I found them locally for cheap, and by cheap I mean free.) I also recommend a fuse by the batt on your run(*) to your amp(*) rated for the amps themselves (even if they're internally fused) but that may be a touch of paranoia.

If you're like me and don't use a sealed battery you will want a battery box. If the battery leaks without a box you will get yummy corrosive acid all over your trunk and you will soon have a holey trunk floor. Also batteries can release hydrogen gas when being charged, this is toxic and super-flammable.
I believe all pre 1997 bonnevilles (except maybe SC'ed ones) had 105a alts. I know mine does.
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:25 PM   #30
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You still don't get the point. You defy common sense by hooking these things up knowing(?) it'* not wise. And asking whats to be done. Simple. DONT DO IT. Period. 1500 watts is quite a stepup. And shouldn't be added to a car w/ a 105 amp alternator.
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