1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Rod hitting...

Old Jan 7, 2011 | 01:31 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by FordMan77
Yep, rattle is good. Does it have both o-rings in place still?

If you haven't done so already, with the car running in Park, spray carb cleaner around all vacuum fittings, the edge of the LIM/UIM, around the TB and any other places that vacuum could leak and see if you get any spots that make the car run differently. If so, then that'* a leak.

From your list it sounds like you have the rest under control. Hopefully one of these tests will show the issue. Good Luck

The PCV actually had NO O-rings when I removed it...

Which brings me to my next question:
I only had the MAF low voltage code at first. I unplugged MAF and car still stalled out at a red light. So I ruled out MAF.
I then started poking around, which led to my coil pack discovery and such.
BUT, could I have damaged something when I removed the PCV and rattled it?
Maybe I didn't put it back in right, or the o-rings are an essentail part of the puzzle??
BECAUSE I didnt have the misfire till I removed and put back the PCV/replaced the MAP.

I've also sprayed carb cleaner with engine running at all the vaccuum lines on top of engine and got no signs of leaks there. That'* why I'm scared the leak is either at a bigger place(EGR tube maybe?) or it'* a more serious problem.

Dan--You say possibly bad ICM? How would one know if that'* my culprit other than switching it out with a new one?
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 07:05 AM
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I never looked in to testing a ICM. Swapping it is the only way I know of right now.
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 03:11 AM
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Dang..

Would no Orings on PCV cause my misfire??
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 03:35 PM
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P0102(low volt maf), P0300(random misfire), and P0171(too lean).

The MAF tested fine previously. Should I check it again?
The PCV didnt have o rings, and the shop tried to get me a grommet but I don'tthink that'* what I need is it?

Sluggish during accelrating, stalled out one time while backing out, and I do get some backfiring.
Exhaust leak perhaps?

Anyone have an idea what the combo of these codes could be? Thanks!
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 04:10 PM
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p0171 tends to be a vacuum leak, but not always. Try unplugging the MAF for a day or so and see if it gets better. The p0300 is likely from running rich or lean. Unplug and cap off the EVAP system and see if the p0171 code goes away.
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 04:20 PM
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Where do I unplug and cap it off at? Sorry!
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 04:36 PM
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Should be right at the throttle body. You will find a vacuum line that goes down to a canister about the size of a coffee can. Unplug that and plug the line, and cap the nipple on the throttle body. If the p0171 code clears then you have a problem in the EVAP system. A vaccum leak there is a PITA to find, and can cause the p0171 code and many other issues like you are seeing.
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 02:18 AM
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Can I drive like that for a little bit, to see if my problem is there?

Also...
I never considered 02 sensor. Could that be the cause of my issues?
OR IAC?
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 07:05 AM
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Ya, you can drive with the EVAP disconnected. When a O2 starts to go out your mileage will start to drop.
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Danthurs
Ya, you can drive with the EVAP disconnected. When a O2 starts to go out your mileage will start to drop.
I go by the trip, as I haven't felt like fixing the gas gauge yet. But milage has been pretty steady, maybe a 2 or 3 mile difference before these issues started.
So okay, I'll do the evap test and try it out!

The car last night started shaking bad if I tried to go above 35. :/
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