Rod hitting... - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 12-30-2010, 01:32 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by xtremerevolution View Post
Better. You can replace a piston if the bearings are all intact, but its better to replace the whole shortblock if the bearings are not intact.
Keep in mind that connecting rod, if that'* the case is hitting the cylinder wall.
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Old 12-30-2010, 01:40 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Danthurs View Post
Keep in mind that connecting rod, if that'* the case is hitting the cylinder wall.
Good point, that is possible.

I guess the rule of thumb is, if your 3800 shortblock has bottom end problems, get a new shortblock. With them being so cheap, there'* really not a reason not to.
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Old 12-30-2010, 01:43 PM   #13
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Billboost had a piston go away. I do believe he was able to save the block, but it was scratched up real good.
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Old 12-30-2010, 01:56 PM   #14
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If you're lucky the rod may not be hitting, but the edges of the wrist pin will def. hit. That'* what screwed my block up.

I called about 10 dealers and parts stores trying to locate just ONE piston/ring set for the 3800 and only found one GM dealer that had it, for $250. Not including bearing cap bolts, etc... Was not worth it to save so I picked up a complete 01 Monte engine for $375 delivered to my front door with 105K on it. Swapped accessories and dropped it in. Done.

Now I have a Series II longblock with some nice dimples in cyl #1 bore as a garage floor paperweight, lol... Still not sure what to do with it. Problem is that I would have to get it line bored, turn the crank, new bearings, and hopefully be able to mill the dents out of the cylinder wall just to get the motor back together. I really don't find it cost effective when the 3800 is so prevalent still.
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Old 12-30-2010, 02:04 PM   #15
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Scrap value. I have a block sitting in my shed. It'* going to the scrap yard in spring.
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Old 12-30-2010, 11:55 PM   #16
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Hey gang...
Listen to THIS.

My dad and I went out and checked this car, because the backyard mechanic didn't do any compression test or anything.

Pulling plug wires, we see that as far as coil packs go, I have 2 shiny gold ones(replaced at 138 thou miles), 2 silverish metal ones...and on the last pack, 1 silverish metal one and 1 rusty dirty one!!

NOW, I haven't had time to pull that coil pack and check the plug.
BUT...
Does this sound like a change that plug/coil pack and I'm almost in the clear?
It'* running rough..but I'm not feeling a knock like I would expect if it were a rod or something.
It'* more of just a heavy engine vibration.
Please tell me there'* some good news and that mechanic was just saying the biggest possible problem....

Also, lets say I find that the plug that coil pack is on is bad. What could that mean?
If I replace it, do I fix my misfire?

Thank you so much gang...I just have a hard time believing this motor is gone.
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Old 12-31-2010, 12:11 AM   #17
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If you have a bad coil, that will make it run really rough, also backfire threw the exhaust. If you pull a plug and it'* smashed, that'* a bad sign. If they all come out good, that'* a good sign. The one on the bad post might come out fowled, but that'* not a sign of a bad piston.
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Old 12-31-2010, 12:23 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danthurs View Post
If you have a bad coil, that will make it run really rough, also backfire threw the exhaust. If you pull a plug and it'* smashed, that'* a bad sign. If they all come out good, that'* a good sign. The one on the bad post might come out fowled, but that'* not a sign of a bad piston.
If I get a video of this to you tomorrow morning, could we rule out a piston or rod, or would that truly require pulling her and seeing?

I'll be replacing that coil (I should replace that plug too right?) in the next 2 days. I'll pull all my plugs at that time and see the results.If no plugs are smashed, piston is good right? (i hope!)

also, am I right in assuming a piston/rod would be a rhythmic beat/pretty damn loud? My dad says it doesnt sound like any pistons or rods he'* ever heard, which is why I'm really doubting it.
Like I said, could a video really help you guys help me? Thank you SO much for helping out as much as you do already!
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Old 12-31-2010, 12:26 AM   #19
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A spun rod bearing would have a very noticeable knock. You can also check the oil and you should find metal in the oil if a bearing is spun. It makes a big mess of things.
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Old 12-31-2010, 12:28 AM   #20
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Oh meant to add I checked oil and it seems to have no coolant or metal flakes!! I mean, I didn't drain it and look at it...but I dipsticked and took a peek where I put it in at. Saw nothing from there. I know I should drain it to be sure.
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