It'* pouring rain and back to snow here again...the puddle was only 2-3 inches I'd guess.

That would cause it to not start and then when it does start, die on me correct?
Would I need to replace them right now, or will they dry out?

Like I said, towing it to muffler shop tomorrow. How bad would that suck if I towed it there only for it to not even start when they fix it. Wow.

If grounding out then it wont start or if it does wont run well. Dry them out and see if that helps.

MAF question...

A new cat being welded up hasn't fix the issue.
(I need to unhook battery to reset codes to be sure, but..)

With MAF unplugged, engine still backfires, runs rough, etc.
With MAF plugged in, my CEL flashes.

So signs point to me needing to replace my MAF.
BUT...
what could be causing my problems w/it unplugged?

Like I said, I need to reset codes, but I'm HOPING like hell that my p0171 is gone now that i actually have a cat welded on haha.

Any chance you can get scanned to see what your LTFT is? Backfire tells me a cylinder isn't firing.

Would the cylinder not firing throw a code?

And how to get it scanned for that?

Maybe not, pull the plugs and look at them. Look for a fowled plug.

Just wondering, does this sound like a UIM/LIM gasket failure?

A bad LIM gasket would tend to give you some coolant in the oil. A bad UIM gasket will either leak out by the throttle body, or inside the LIM. Coolant in the cylinder will fowl a plug, and you will see that when you remove the plugs.

Cool, will remove plugs asap. It'* a job I've never been successful with, sadly. :/

After resetting computer, I started the car with MAF unplugged. Idle was pretty fine, even revving it up it was fine, almost like it used to be. Let it warm up a bit, or put it in gear, and idle again or give some throttle, and it gets loud and backfiring again.

Did you ever check the engine coolant temp sensor and the intake air temp sensor? Both of these will effect idle and can change things when the engine warms up