I've got a rod hitting, so says a mechanic I've known for awhile. He says $500 for new bearings/crank case(if i remember right? im not totally up with the mechanic lingo but i know some lol), new valves, etc. $250 for labor if I help out too.

My problem is flashing SES light, heavy shudder, you can feel it hitting when you put your hand on top, so I'm partial to believe him.

Now, the question is, is that a good price/sound like the right solution?

Are you 100% sure you have a spun rod bearing? Could you perhaps upload a video so we can hear and confirm?

What engine is this on, and how did that rod bearing go?

It can be done, but 3800'* are pretty picky when it comes to replacing bearings. People often opt to getting new (used junkyard) engines as it has to come out anyway to replace the bearings. I've heard of some people replacing the bearings, and having them fail again in a few hundred miles. I got my L67 at a junkyard for $205. Its been running great for 9k miles now.

From what your describing, that'* a spun bearing. At a minimum, that'* a new crank and connecting rod. Your best bet is a new short block and then swap over the rest of the parts.

I can get a video for you tomorrow sometime.

The noise/shaking just suddenly started happening!! had the MAF code for 2 days, then BAM! flashing light, heavy shaking, etc.

No overheating? Is there coolant in the oil? What color is the oil?

No overheating. Doesn't appear to be coolant in oil...oil is dark brown/black. :/

Does it sound like a hammer tapping on the block? Like a heavy metallic sound?

The way you describe the noise, SES light and heavy shaking sounds exactly like what my GP did when I blew apart #1 piston. The wrist pin was beating the snot out of the cylinder bore, but the motor did actually run.

Is that better or worse than spun bearing? :/

Better. You can replace a piston if the bearings are all intact, but its better to replace the whole shortblock if the bearings are not intact.

I would say that'* about just as bad. Either way, your taking a connecting rod off the crank shaft, and that'* a bit more involved then it sounds. A compression test will show if that is what happened. I've only seen this happen 2 times. Either way, locate a new short block. Should be able to find one for a $300 or so. Then about $300 in gaskets. Way cheaper then finding a new running engine for $900