ONE CYLINDER DISSAPEARING WHEN WET - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-07-2006, 08:25 PM   #21
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Sometimes, when you least expect it, a problem may go away. Sounds like you have a good start on a cleaning. Follow the information given in the l;inks above. Rember, though, that your TB may have coolant passages in it so draining off a little coolant might be necessary to remove it.

Total time is dependent on the person doing it and the level of cleaning. Should be a couple of hours.
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Old 08-23-2006, 10:38 PM   #22
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Default AFTER THE CLEANING PROJECT

Hello all,

Was bit busy, with the project too. Yes it takes abt 5HRS, 2.5 for dis and 2.5 for assembling it all.

After all was assembled car started nicely, the check engine light was still on, after a little drive the light was gone.

Unfortunatelly it came back just the next day. And it stayed that way. Now the car/engine shuts down on idling RPM'*.

PLease advise if that would mean to change MAF. I cleaned it very nicely w qtip as was instructed. Yes there was quite some black dust.

When the air outside is cooler the engine starts ok, when hotter it needs time to even out with revs.

Also please advise as at the side of air filter there is strange noise comming out as you start the engine. As the noise dissappeares the engine revs levels out, before it the revs are uneven, up and down.

Any ideas what that could be.

Thank you all.

LT BONIE
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Old 08-25-2006, 11:35 AM   #23
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Default MAF sensor to be changed?/ Strange metal noise starting up

Hello All,

I know all are busy, especially this nice summer.

Please comment on the following:
After cleaning MAF, TB car started nicely, the check engine light was still on, after a little drive the light was gone. Unfortunatelly it came back just the next day. And it stayed that way. Now the car/engine shuts down on idling RPM'*., while RPM'* are high as you drive it is ok, but as you let go accelerator sometimes engine dies...

Please advise if that would mean to change MAF. I cleaned it very nicely w qtip as was instructed. Yes there was a lot of black dust on it.

When the air outside is cooler the engine starts ok, when hotter it needs time to even out with revs.

Also ..... please advise as at the side of air filter there is strange noise comming out as you start the engine. As the noise dissappeares the engine revs levels out, before it the revs are uneven, up and down.

Thank you

LT
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Old 08-25-2006, 12:42 PM   #24
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LT.. all this points to only one thing.

You need to get that code scanned. Without that we can not give you any good diagnosis beyond guessing. Guessing will lead to you changing parts that are expensive and probably not bad.

A quick scan and bring back the codes is your best bet at this point. Don't buy anything suggested... just get the code(*)
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Old 08-26-2006, 06:14 PM   #25
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Default CODE 102

Got it scanned.

102 again. Got a MAF from a scrap yard, put in, works fine, smoothe, starts nicely from half crank. Check engine light is gone.

Anybody knows how to refurbsh a MAF? how to change those 2 little tiny things kinda diodes? How are those called, those shouldn't be expensive.

As NAPA sais they sell for 250CAD refurbished, as I can not see how could you dismantle MAF, just to smelt those 2 little diodes in and out.

Anyway got used MAF for 50CAD, for now works fine, will let you know for how long in interested.

Thank you Bill for good advice. Have a nice weekend all.

LT.
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Old 08-26-2006, 06:39 PM   #26
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I have seen a lot of Reman MAF sensors that were never worht a nickle...

I have always tried to find a decent junkyard unit if possible...

Glad you got her running right..

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