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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-02-2006, 05:06 PM   #41
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OK, well they may have given up - but let'* not toss in the towel yet. When you switched to resistance - what are you measuring? Still where the voltage reading was? If so - you shouldn't do that. It at best will trip the protection circuit in the meter and at worst, destroy that part of it.

So, we have everything in one place, can you do a summary for us all in one post.? What has been replaced, and what has been checked, with the results of each one.
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Old 11-02-2006, 06:12 PM   #42
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np lets see....

car shut off,, car cranks but no spark and no power going to the injectors
fuses good
has12 volts at the pink/black
key is good
grounds good
NO corrosion at Battery cables
no trouble codes
wiring is good

new parts......
ignition module [$140 took that back]
crank position sensors

junk yard parts.......
3 ignition module
like 12 coils [all good]
1 crank and camshaft position sensors [each]
1 computer
1 maf sensors

about 40hr of work [if not more]
a carton of smokes and a lot of beer
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Old 11-02-2006, 09:34 PM   #43
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Do you have any voltage going to the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors? I don't have a schematic for your car, but it may be a white and black wire.
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Old 11-03-2006, 02:36 PM   #44
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yes it is the wht/blk wire

the schematic say it should have 10 volts going to that wire
i dont know why i didint test that! !, im gona check that asap

i can test that with key on right or do i need to crank it
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Old 11-03-2006, 02:59 PM   #45
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Ok, you *should* have 12v constant at the injectors when ignition is ON. The injectors switch on and off via ground switch by the PCM...ICM has nothing to do with injector power, so I would turn attention as to why you are not getting power at the injectors.

Based on the FSM, the crank and cam sensors are tied together at the grey/red and the white/black, wht/blk being 10 volt reference, and goes to the ICM (as does the grey/red).

I ran into this problem a few days ago with mine...I found a very stupid mistake in that the main harness where it connects to the firewall was not seated correctly. Has your ever been out of the car? Once I reseated, all was right as rain...injectors got their constant power, and fuel pump kicked on when it was supposed to.
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Old 11-03-2006, 03:22 PM   #46
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i geting volt reading at all wires accept the ground on bouth cam and crank sensors plugs
but battery is low, im charging it up and will retest it


sandrock...
ill take a look at that main harness
[no its never been out of the car as for as i know]
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Old 11-03-2006, 03:30 PM   #47
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Have any of the grounds possibly been removed or become corroded?

I would suggest cleaning your connections at all ends of both battery cables. Then finding and cleaning all ground connections.

When I say clean..I mean..remove, actually clean and put back together.
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Old 11-03-2006, 03:38 PM   #48
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I AM GETING 12v constant at the injectors when ignition is ON hmmm..
that *** testers must be bad my meter shows power

"main harness where it connects to the firewall"
i see 2 harness thay are covered in some black sticky rubbery stuff, is there a plug under that stuff should i peel it off and look?
"update".... is it on driver or passenger side

BillBoost37.....
i cleaned battery cables and body ground and the ground under the ICM looks clean
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Old 11-03-2006, 03:39 PM   #49
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when battery is charged ill try to start it up
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Old 11-03-2006, 03:44 PM   #50
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BLAZZ... check the ground near the oil pressure sender on the back of the block. It'* the main ground for engine controls in many years.

Yes..you may have power to the injectors.. but reading it again... the ECM/PCM toggles the ground.

You seem to be missing ground.
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