ok so i just went out and disconnected the battery, and then started it... instead of hesitating, it started right up this time. :?: :?: So I let it warm up... got to full operating temp...didn't stall...jolted the gas a couple times, didn't even WANT to stall. Completely different. umm, but as for the pump, it sounds like a chugging engine pulley that had dry bearings (its squeaking) i don't know what thats all about, but i wouldn't think thats a good thing. it was acting really nice just now, i wish i could take it out and see how it drives.

since i'm not very good with any sort of high pressure hydraulic plumbing, i think i'm just going to have those two back lines replaced...at least where they're bad. I will do the fuel pump. thats not that bad once i can get the tank off. i can't even order the pump until i see what code it is. but then again, i don't have the money to order it yet either.

ok. so for fuel pump replacement. which of the following should be replaced with it or just resused.

Pump Harness
Sending Unit
Lock Ring
Pump Seal...o ring if you will?
Strainer

thats about all i need to know. so that would be helpful.

OH, and. are there any special tools i will need for replacing it? i only have just the basics here, so it would be helpful to know.

Out-Frackin-Standing!

Don't be shocked. The car had learned to idle with really messed up fuel flow to the injectors. Reseting the ECM made it start learning to idle all over from scratch...the big CTRL-ALT-DELETE for the engine. Hope it lasts for ya.

<snip> Pump Harness,Sending Unit,Lock Ring <snip..>

Re-use all of these parts.

<snip..>Pump Seal...o ring if you will? Strainer<snip..>

Replace these two items with the pump.

Tools: Mallet, big punch (for turning the locking ring) Possibly a soldering iron or crimp connectors to splice the pump harness wiring (check the new pump'* directions before leaving the parts store)

still don't know the best thing to cut these with.

and umm, ok sounds all goo except....

if i get the same design pump, is it still going to require splicing? rather not be splicing wires around gasoline fumes...just wouldn't want anything to short. is there any kinda adapter or something?

I was planning on getting this stuff at rockauto.com...but maybe it would be a better idea just to do it locally. Thing is, it would be better to not have to actually GO to the parts store again, but then again, it is faster.

ok...so yeah. what am i usin to cut these suckers?

I'm not too keen on the idea of cutting them, I think you would be better off hacksaw'n off the bolts and leaving the straps intact to reuse. It will take a bit more time to do (Dremel tool and a cutoff wheel would zip it right off) but you can take a hacksaw blade, wrap up the end in tape to give you a handle, the start the slow process of cutting off the head of the bolt.


As to the wires. Check the instructions that came with the pump. Splicing wires on one is a common practice and doesn't cause any problems, even when immersed in gas. The pump may come with the right connections, but if I remember right, the stock pump is wired all the way through the top of the tank, with the harness connector on the outside. Again, look at the instructions that come with the pump. You could also lookup one of the Walbro pump dealers online 5CA403, $55 from fuel-pumps.net looks like a direct replacement with pump wiring harness

ok, umm, i looked into just replacing the bolts and noone seems to think there are direct OE size replacements. Do the straps come with bolts? also...what about the clip that the bolt goes into? is this a dealer only item? the only reason i really just wanted to cut the straps is because i can just order new straps online....but i really never thought about whether or not those straps come with bolts :?:

Thanks for the heads up on the pump at fuel-pumps.net. This is my shopping list so far before considering that alternate website. I really hope the sending unit is not rotted out.

Fuel/Air : Fuel Pump
CARTER Part # P74037 {In Tank Fuel Pump}
2nd Design; w/Tag Code Marked CPK or CPV; Due to electrical requirements, Wiring Harness replacement is strongly recommended
3rd Design; w/Tag Code Marked CPK or CPV; Due to electrical requirements, Wiring Harness replacement is strongly recommended $69.79

Fuel/Air : Fuel Pump Strainer
CARTER Part # STS2 {Fuel Pump Strainer}
2nd Design; w/Tag Code Marked CPK or CPV
3rd Design; w/Tag Code Marked CPK or CPV $6.32

Fuel/Air : Fuel Pump Tank Seal
ACDELCO Part # G10 {#22515965}
SEAL,FUEL SDR(O RING) 86.5 DIA $5.88

Fuel/Air : Fuel Pump Wiring Harness
CARTER Part # 888536 {Harness Adapter}
2nd Design; w/Tag Code Marked CPK or CPV; Due to electrical requirements, Wiring Harness replacement is strongly recommended
3rd Design; w/Tag Code Marked CPK or CPV; Due to electrical requirements, Wiring Harness replacement is strongly recommended $8.42

Subtotal $90.41

Shipping from 2 locations: $18.44

Sales Tax 5.50% $5.99

Total $114.84

Sending unit is an additional $60, so I'm hoping I don't run into that.

So yeah, if i cut the bolts, where do i get the bolts, and if i cut the straps, do they come with bolts?

Ok. Just confirming fuel pump or not here.

I was reading up on some of this stuff about how the wires can sometimes melt and short out and that can cause intermittent fuel pump activity....

now to see the difference between it dying out and just sputtering out i pulled the FP fuse while running and it was a definite die, like i turned the key off. as you can tell from the two videos i posted, it sputters out. today i let it run for 35 mins, it stalled only once. after pulling the fuse and putting it back in, the car does not start very well. it does that same crank crank crank bullshit. When i stuck my head under the car when idling, i could hear the pump intermittently clicking. so that basically confirms the fuel pump dying. but i'm not positive that the wires have not shorted out as well.

I have not dropped the tank yet as i have not aquired another siphon or a hacksaw blade.

I stuck my nose in the FSM a little further and followed all the tests including pulling the relay while running and confirming that the car will keep running. It does.

Just REALLY want to make sure its the pump and not something else. I don't have money to play with here.

Bolts are nothing special, hardware store should be able to hook you up (or check the phone book for fastener supply places. Take the old bolt (even after you've hacked the head off) with you so they can dig around and find the same size for you.

Finding the fuel tank straps would probably be a lot harder than finding the bolts.

Well rockauto has the straps...no problem. but i think i would have to replace the bolts anyways because well....they're nasty.

but anyways.

yeah. so comments on today'* results? Still think its just the FP?

Yea, still sounds like a FP.
New straps won't come with bolts. Get grade 5 or stainless bolts is my recommendation.

but they're special nuts.... attached to a clip it looks like. where the heck do i find THOSE?

dealer?