Thanks for the vid. I miss my 89... lemme think.

Negative on the code, the ECM isn't even looking at O2 values until it goes into closed loop operation (i.e. driving it down the road at operating temp.) So it will not flag the lean DTC for a while.

I really feel sorry for you wjcollier, unfortunately I'm not aware of fuel lines and really technical stuff which is why I have not been able to comment. All I can do is point you to the yellow pages or a repair manual. If I lived near you I could at least give you a lift to the auto store or work when you needed. That suxs

You shouldn't use compression fittings on brake lines.

ok, curt, i left it running the first time for quite some time, it got up to full operating temp, actually the fan came on once, so wouldn't that mean it went into closed loop by then?!

and umm, ok no compression fittings on brake lines... I really don't know alot about hydraulic plumbing, so would it be better to just have someone do it for me, or should i attempt it?

getting back to the running issue. Ok. So I really need to know if it is fuel pressure or not. So it keeps dying, but why would it keep doing that? Run, stall, not start, wait then start and then die again? I mean if the pump is not working then would it run at all? I don't get it! Since the FPR seems to be good, if possible, I'd like to troubleshoot this a little more, what else short of the the fuel pump should i check for proper functionality? Ignition maybe? Would that be intermittent?

Also, when its idling, its usually idling fine, nice and smooth and then it'll like hiccup and almost stall and then catch itself and come back up. The exhaust barely smells like anything, not its usual smell. Interesting thing is, when its running, I can rev it fine, no hesitation.

I'm very confused.

Pull the new fuel filter and see if it is clogged. I am betting that it is. I hope it isn't, for your sake. If it is, though, plan on dropping the tank or having someone else do it.
When you take it off and it is still wet, tap the "in" end on a white rag or paper towel to see if you are getting any particles in it.

I am always amazed at how nice the cars up there can look on the outside, yet be that corroded on the bottom side. Here it seems to be the opposite, cars tend to get sunburned. That is a good looking car, I see why you want to keep it.

nah, i doubt it very highly because it started this odd hesitation after running for the first minute with the new filter. If I end up dropping the tank and doing the brake line too, I will definitely change the filter again. They're cheap i suppose. I still didn't show you guys how excellent those new lines look.

But I definitely want to troubleshoot and make sure that if I replace the FP that I don't continue having this problem. That is of the highest importance. I need a car. One that goes..and more importantly...stops.

No, it has to be driven before it will go into closed loop. I've let mine idle in the driveway for quite a while with a scan tool on it, and it remained in open loop. Drove it down to the 7-11 and if finally went into closed loop about a mile from the house. Scan tool is about the only thing that will give you open/closed loop status.

Another question for you: Have you reset the ECM after all the work has been done? Just to make sure you've cleared any history codes and make it start learning how to idle from scratch.

Last, only way to really know what the FP'* output is would be to hook a pressure gauge on the schrader valve at the injector rail. The pump might be toast, or it might be intermittent.

thanks foir the info curt.

now.

no I did not reset the ECM because it never had any codes and still doesn't. But its worth a try, I will do it anyways.

And as for the pressure gauge. I don't have a whole heck of alot of money left and a pressure gauge is 38 bucks. Anyone willing to loan me one via mail?

oh. and i gotta cut the straps, i don't have anything handy...whats the best thing to cut those SOBs with? They *don't* look too thin.