This may sound a bit dumb, but does your SES light come on when the ign turns on engine off? Tach work when cranking? If yes, when you turn the ign on, does the fuel pump relay click for 2sec then turn off? Make sure you have the right relay... i'm fairly certain it'* the right row 2nd from top.. maybe 3rd, i can tell you in 2sec for sure, if you are uncertain. Try banging on the tank with a mallet? Flicking the key off on off on real fast at least 15-20 times? Both at the same time? Say a little prayer before you do.. you might get lucky.

Here'* what you do.. those fuel lines should hold up.. they aren't pretty, but if really careful you can do this. Invest in some PB Blaster.. it'* a couple bucks.. i've noticed menards is cheapest. WD-40 will NOT cut it man.. if you ever want to save those lines get some blaster. Soak them for two days. Go out twice a day and get them real good. Don't quote me on this, but I believe those are both 14 or 15mm, make sure you get a very tight wrench on there. With all that rust, the proper size will need coaxing to fit. The larger nut on that filter will be crap, more than likely the line nut on the other end will be more solid, or maybe the filter'* nut will be better too. You also have the right idea with line wrenches, they have more of a hook, those are required as well.

Once you get the tank'* side line off, turn the ign on and watch that line, does any fuel come out? Yes, filter clogged [i'm going to guess no, honestly man]. If no, you know it'* the fuel pump. Get to draining out that gas [yuppie, 13gallons? Have fun with that!]. Go to the jyard, practice, get the lowest mileage H-body you can find, lower mileage, less use, etc. Also, smell the gas in it, bad gas, no go. You'll know it when you smell it. You get the practice of dropping the tank [if they do it for you, less work for you], you get the best pump for your money, and if you never go below 1/4 tank, and clean the crap out of the inside of that tank, chances are you can keep that pump till the rust overpowers your car. And with the money you save from used fp, you can buy new lines, if necessary.

I'm the cheapest guy around here, and that'* what I would do.

PS: You most likely could bench test the fp at the yard too. Also, [since i have a good reputation at the local yard], that if i go there a few weeks later saying that pump crapped out, I know they would give me another, free. So, maybe get someone who has a good rep to buy it for you, so you have that option open.

Ok...

The SES is operational, 12 flashes, no codes stored. Tach is operational. The relay does click, the pump does not prime. I have swapped the FP relay with the horn relay, confirmed functionality. I know what they all are, I have the FSM. No I have no tried banging on my tank with a mallet, I don't make practice of doing that to my car. I will try that. No I have not tried key on and key off REALLY fast, but I have done it fairly fast. I have prayed. Someone forgot about me tho.

I have a plan for the fuel lines, they'll be fine for now. If I hold the line'* nut fitting and turn the one on the filter WHILE holding the filter in place, everything will be fine with that.

My friend does not have enough gas to come over and pick me up until tuesday when he gets paid, so it doesn't look like that filter is going anywhere, anytime soon. As for PB blaster, I know it is the best, and I know that WD-40 is not gonna cut it. But let me reiterate. I Don't Have. ANY MONEY. None. At all. I can't afford even a JY pump right now. So we'll see.

I will watch the line once I get the filter off. But I'm gonna go with no already as well. Yes I'm going to have fun with 13 gals of fuel. Which means I have to buy a siphon and two more 5 gal gas containers. I will see how this all goes, but for now, I do know that I don't have a tube cutting tool, NOR do I have a flaring tool and nothing to bend with. SO, I'm SOL without some money. We'll see, but yeah, I now own a 3400lb paper weight for the time being.

Worse case to remove the old filter.... cut it out... You do not need flaring tools to put a new one in. Get some high pressure (fuel injected) gas hose from your local parts store and a couple of clamps. The amount of hose you will need should be cheap enough cause you don't need much... existing line...hose...new filter...hose...existing line. I never replace old gas line with new metal line I always use high pressure hose as that is what is made for.

Also. find the wires the run the pump.. disconnect it from the car and run a jumper wire to the battery direct. The pump may or may not start again. If it does hook it back up and try it. I have, when broke, done this and it has kept the pump running till my next paycheck.

The PCM sends 12 volts to energize the relay, that'* the clicking you hear. All that means is the relay is opening & closing. The power for the pump comes from another source, fuse #6 on the passenger side. Did you pull that fuse so you can get a good look at it?

yes, I checked the orange 20 amp #6 fuse on the passenger side, I checked it, looked good, and swapped it with one on the driver side to ensure its functionality.

Skip messing with the filter for now. You can change it after you get the pump running.
One thing to check is the socket that the fuse goes in for tightness and the connector on the pump as well as the tank ground. You could even pull the pump connector and see if your getting 12v to it. If all is good and your pump didn't run when you jumped it, its most likely fried.
Check for the pump ground locations in the FSM in case you missed one.

Ok. Heres the deal. I guess that filter is not going anywhere, but i guess i won't bother with that right now.

I don't have the money to pay to have it done, and I don't have the money OR the space to do it myself.

We'll see.

I will look for another job locally and see how it goes. But at minimum wage I will have to work for at least a couple weeks before I can even START to afford to have it done. But I'm hoping theres nothing else really wrong.

hey man, not sure if it means anything to ya, but my caddy is going to the scrapyard this week, and it has an external fuel pump... along with an internal [but the external does the work IIRC], it wouldn't be too hard for me to pull it off for ya if you want it. May be able to go outside the tank and hold ya together till you get your finances taken care of. It'* an 89 fleetwood 4.5L, with 250k, but the fuel pump still works [car still runs btw].

Thanks for the offer man, but I don't really wanna start modding my fuel delivery system right now. Rather keep it stock. And if I do fix this and do keep the car, I certainly don't want there to even be a MINISCULE chance that this can happen again.

Just a thought, is it at all possible the line is frozen?