I pulled all the fuses and found I had a leak from these fuses. I assume it is one problem?

Fuse 26 (BATT MAIN 1 40A)
Fuse 27 (BATT MAIN 2 50A)
Fuse 30 (BATT MAIN 4 30A)
Fuse 16 (PCM/ETC 15A)

Only with all four removed does the battery not drain.

Exactly what is he draw? How many amps?

If you pull the first fuse, does it drop a little? Pull another, then drop more? Then another and it drops more?

You can't be just pulling main fuses, for example, the BAT1 fuse feeds 5 fuses...if the BAT1 fuse causes a drop, you leave it in and remove the other 5 one at a time.....

I completely agree. Even operating properly, every one of those fuses should be drawing power with the car off.

The big questions though are how much power is being drawn. Even on a bad day the battery should have less than a .5 amp draw when off, which eventually settles down to around .25 amps I believe.

Tech II, This may end up as a duplicate post cause I thought I posted it already but I must have done something wrong. Anyway, my old meter only goes to 250 mA(yes, I may toast it doing this) and with any one of those four fuses in, the needle goes right over. However, I don't think it is a huge leak cause if the car is not used for a couple of days it still starts.

I see from rjolly 87 that each of the main batt fuses may be active even with the car turned off but that in total it should be less than 250 mA. So for example, if I leave main batt 1 in(and pull the other 3) and then try pulling the 5 fuses connected to it and then do the same for main batt 2 and main batt 4, can it be solved that way or do I need to get a new meter? Do you have the diagrams for main batt 2 and 4?

This is my i/p panel

Having problems posting. Test only

Thanks Tech II:

I have an old meter that only goes to 250mA and when any one of those four fuses are in it exceeds the 250(yes my fry the meter but its old). Anyway, let'* say I just put in Main batt 1(keep the other 3 out) and then pull each of the 5 per your diagram. Would that work? Then, if you have diagrams for main batt 2 and 4 I could do the same. Here is my ip fuse box diagram

I guess I would need to know what the "off" draw should be on each as well. ie. does the clock take 50 mA so that is what it should read when that is the only one of the 5 fuses off of main batt 1 that I leave in. Thanks

Making a little headway. I found this
and so far, on main batt 2, with the turn/haz fuse pulled, the leak stops. BUT, on main batt 1, only the onstar/aldl and int light fuses don't draw power??? Also, still haven't found what main batt 4 does. Appreciate the help

What is the issue that has you chasing power draw? What is happening and how often?

rjolly87,

well if I don't drive the car for a few days the battery does die. As I have mentioned, I am definitely drawing way over 250mA when it is shut off, key out, so something is leaking.

Also wondering as the ip fuse box requires the door to be open, each time I test a fuse(and close the door) do I have to wait for a period of time?

Lastly, I was wondering if there is something in the ip fuse box and was considering removing it to open up but not sure how to do that?

250ma? That'* not much.

Two things.
1. Get rid of that meter. I mean NOW.
2. How old is the battery?