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BE THE FIRST IN THE WORLD TO SOLVE THIS!!

Old Sep 21, 2017 | 05:13 PM
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This car is fast, smooth and reliable. Reliable because I learned it and respect her. After 5 hours sitting, she will crank, but no turn over. However, disconnecting the battery for between 30 minutes and over an hour, she will start. Greatly hesistate, but start. After around 12 minutes running she can be cut off and back to normal.

She fires quick when you turn the key and starts nice and smooth. This car runs like a champ. But no one is this world can lift this one burden. I did not go to dealer because I was told they cannot be trusted above all. I have put over 300 dollars into "so-called" solutions, assuming now maybe bad ground. What do you think, or shall you also scratch your head? What I done is below...

Mass Air Flow Senser
Crank Sensor
Oil Pressure switch and change w/Filter
Alternator
Battery
$44 Iradium plugs new (used but good wires)
Air Filter
Just Installed ICM!
I think I think this is all
**2003 3.4 V6 Grand AM Coupe
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Old Sep 22, 2017 | 06:27 AM
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I'm gonna put some money on a coolant issue.
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Old Sep 22, 2017 | 08:05 AM
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thanx for the reply but coolant is fine
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Old Sep 22, 2017 | 10:19 AM
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What is fuel pressure doing in all of this? If you don't have a gauge, it may be good to rent/buy one just to rule this out as an issue.
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Old Sep 22, 2017 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by rjolly87
What is fuel pressure doing in all of this? If you don't have a gauge, it may be good to rent/buy one just to rule this out as an issue.

O fuel pressure is great and so still is spark. However I was told when no start, check it then to confirm pump good or failing. But how can pumps have these intermittent issues that look electronic?
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Old Sep 22, 2017 | 02:19 PM
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Best way to check it, cheap, is have a can of carb cleaner handy.......

When it won't start, spray into the intake....then attempt to start.....if it starts and runs until the carb cleaner burns up, you know you have a fuel delivery problem...either the injectors are not firing(possible SECURITY problem).......or insufficient fuel pressure......just depressing the schraeder valve and seeing fuel does not mean it'* enough pressure, you need a gauge attached, 40-50 psi.....

If it still doesn't start with the carb cleaner, then you must check for spark.....

Have you scanned for codes?
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Old Sep 22, 2017 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by rjolly87
What is fuel pressure doing in all of this? If you don't have a gauge, it may be good to rent/buy one just to rule this out as an issue.
Originally Posted by Tech II
Best way to check it, cheap, is have a can of carb cleaner handy.......

When it won't start, spray into the intake....then attempt to start.....if it starts and runs until the carb cleaner burns up, you know you have a fuel delivery problem...either the injectors are not firing(possible SECURITY problem).......or insufficient fuel pressure......just depressing the schraeder valve and seeing fuel does not mean it'* enough pressure, you need a gauge attached, 40-50 psi.....

If it still doesn't start with the carb cleaner, then you must check for spark.....

Have you scanned for codes?
Only codes are rear wheel speed sensors, 02 sensor and thermostat.
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Old Sep 22, 2017 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jblack215
Only codes are rear wheel speed sensors, 02 sensor and thermostat.

I will test with guage,during a no start and see.
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Old Sep 24, 2017 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by jblack215
I will test with guage,during a no start and see.
Please list the specific codes. I had an Oldsmobile 88 with the 3800 engine that would fail to start with symptoms like you describe and it turned out to be a bad fuel pressure regulator.
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Old Sep 26, 2017 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Mad_Coachman
Please list the specific codes. I had an Oldsmobile 88 with the 3800 engine that would fail to start with symptoms like you describe and it turned out to be a bad fuel pressure regulator.

My codes are only for rear wheel speed sensors, thermostat and 02 sensor.
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