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Old 06-06-2014, 07:40 PM   #31
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I found the piece that snapped off when replacing the MAF. ACDelco 89017274 Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve . And do you recommend just to put the small O Ring on the PCV stem itself and put the valve in the hole and leave it where it sits at. Then the orange one just sites in the top part that looks where its made to be seated in. And then put the black piece that is shown in this website here
Robot Check Robot Check
and give it the turn that locks it down. And I would imagine the one side of that black piece that broke should do any harm from starting it for now sense it just clicks in on both sides of the MAF. I just wanted to check this off the list of making sure the pcv valve is seated in correct. I have a Schumacher SE-82-6 SERIES Battery Charge that I could take out of my car and bring in doors to charge it and to see where the needle shows when I hook it up if that would help, and it says in the manual that it has a selector switch and an ammeter for reading amps, or do I need the tester to find out if the battery is good? Or can I take it out and take to auto zone to have them test it? I live in a apartment complex and there isn't any outlets outside so I will have to take the battery out and bring it indoors and hook it up on my deck. Unless Auto Zone will be able to test it better if I can bring it there.
The only way I can keep it started is to pump the gas peddle and as soon as I stop it dyes. So hopefully the smell was just from it flooding. The connection on the started looked good. After I take the battery out I will check the ground that comes out of the terminal that leads to a bolt right at the bottom on the side of my battery. Like I said in a previous comment that when I started it on Wed I pushed down on the neg cable and I heard the chimes but that'* when I went in to start it and it didn't start. Maybe after cleaning the terminals last night is all it needed sense it will start every time last night and today until it dyes.
My cousin is coming over tomorrow with his code reader and the gas gauge to check the codes and fuel pressure. After I got done ordering the set of hard vacuum lines I did think that all I needed was the rubber boot, but its already ordered and will be in tomorrow morning. I was able to take one of the lines off that came from the fuel regulator to the boot but the other line goes into a rubber half loop type boot that I just took out cause at the end of that rubber boot it has a weird plastic clip that it attaches to and I didn't want to break it. So when I get the new one I might just put the line back into the half loop rubber boot so I don't end up breaking that plastic clip end.
I have a friend that has a devise that plugs into his cigg lighter so you can plug electrical devices into it and I could see if he could come by and plug my battery charger into it to test the battery. When testing the battery does the terminals need to be off? I also remember seeing at Meijers where they sell the batteries there was a device for around 10 bucks that had to probes on it that checked the battery and the alternator I believe. Would that be what im looking for.
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Old 06-06-2014, 09:31 PM   #32
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you need to put the battery on a load to test them and thats the type of tester alot of the parts stores have bad batteries will read proper voltage most of the time till you try to run something off of them.

make sure you smell the fpr while you are checking things
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Old 06-06-2014, 09:33 PM   #33
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That is the piece you need for replacing the part you broke, nice job finding it, Amazon is one of the cheaper places I usually look, there or RockAuto, if all else fails it is E-Bay.

I tried to find a good how to on here to help with replacing the PCV Valve, but all I could find if one for supercharged 3800 II'*.
I was able to find a site with a decent how to that should dhow you how it goes.
MACGP

What you said about pushing down on the terminal, and hearing something click, it sounds like it did have a problem with it not making a good connection, so I'd go ahead and remove the battery, take it inside and give it 6-8 hours on your charger, of course this won't tell you if it has any dead cells or whatnot, it will charge it if the battery is still good, and as many times as I bet you have cranked it, I am betting it needs a good charging.
Put it on 6 AMP for 6-8 hours, or 2 AMP for 10-12 hours.
The charger won't show you the voltage of the battery though, you'd still need something like this to check the voltage it is holding when done.
I am not sure what device you are talking about that plugs into the cigg lighter, all you really need is what is below, and yes you can test the voltage the battery is holding while the terminals are connected.
Equus 3300 Hands Free Digital Multimeter, Electronic Digital Multimeter, Automotive Multimeter, Equus Multimeter
Also to really know if the batter is still good overall, you'd need to have it load tested, Advance Auto, or Walmart should be able to do this for you.


With what you describe about needing to pump the pedal to keep it running, it sounds like a fuel delivery problem, either there is not enough pressure due to something like a weak, or failing pump, or the MAF may be dirty, and or failing.
You did mention a mechanic seeing negative something in regards to the MAP and MAF, so maybe once you are sure the grounds are fine, and the batter is healthy, then cleaning the MAF, and if possible verifying the MAF is functioning correctly by testing it with a multimeter that can read in hertz, or a scan tool like the Actron one I have, it won;t read the hertz, but it will read the gp/* (grams per second) and that is enough to see if it rises and descends smoothly when you accelerate, and decelerate.
When you are done investigating the grounds, cleaning the burnt part on the post, and making sure the battery is fully charged I still suggest getting MAF Cleaner and cleaning the MAF'* thermistors off, the MAF is the main sensor responsible for the amount of fuel being delivered, and if it is really dirty, or failing, then it could cause it not to run unless you pump the pedal as you describe.

Your MAF is not exactly like mine, but to give an example of what I mean I'll tell you what happened to mine.
My MAF has a top that covers the thermistors, and it came off and was able to spin around in the throttle body'* bore for the MAF, so on occasion I'd have to pump the pedal to get it to start, then it would still run horrible for a while, until the tip quit spinning around and blocking the air from passing over the thermistors, eventually it got totally stuck blocking the airflow over the thermistors, and my car quit stating altogether, there were never any codes thrown, and it took me forever to figure out just what the problem was, it was then I learned just how important the MAF really was, and understood how a dirty, or failing MAF could cause problems with the car running right.
Even after figuring this out my car still ran rough, even after cleaning the MAF, the MAF was reading a tad low so it started to misfire at idle, the only way I fixed this was to buy a new AC Delco MAF, as soon as I did this the car idled perfectly, and did not randomly misfire anymore.
Of course this may be totally irrelevant to your problem, just trying to show the importance of the MAF functioning correctly.
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Old 06-06-2014, 11:30 PM   #34
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I took the connector off the MAP sensor and tried starting it with the remote start while using the throttal on the engine to give it gas to keep it going and it started just the same as with the connector on the sensor. I also smelled for gas by the Fuel Regulator and didn't smell any. It don't seem to smell as bad today sence I put the new MAP sensor on last night when starting it today. I just took the battery out and bought it down to Advanced Auto and they checked it and said its a 12.42 Volts and its showing it has 432 out of 690 cold cranking amps. He then asked if I want him to charge it for 30 minutes so I had him do it while going to get something to eat. I went back after about 40 minutes and he took it off the charger and retested it and it now showed it has 621 out of 690 cold cranking amps.He said the battery should be good. Does it sound like its good?
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Old 06-06-2014, 11:32 PM   #35
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I meant the MAF sensor. I keep getting those two mixed up. Its the one on top of the PCV
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Old 06-06-2014, 11:54 PM   #36
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So I get this memorized better is the MAP sensor is the new one I bought that goes on top of the PCV valve. and trying to learn what the MAP actually does. And the MAF is the sensor that measures the amount of air passing thru the sensor body and ultimately entering the engine thru the throttle body. The PCM uses this information to control fuel delivery- the more air entering the more fuel needed.
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Old 06-07-2014, 02:02 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by Rob46360 View Post
I took the connector off the MAP sensor and tried starting it with the remote start while using the throttal on the engine to give it gas to keep it going and it started just the same as with the connector on the sensor. I also smelled for gas by the Fuel Regulator and didn't smell any. It don't seem to smell as bad today sence I put the new MAP sensor on last night when starting it today. I just took the battery out and bought it down to Advanced Auto and they checked it and said its a 12.42 Volts and its showing it has 432 out of 690 cold cranking amps. He then asked if I want him to charge it for 30 minutes so I had him do it while going to get something to eat. I went back after about 40 minutes and he took it off the charger and retested it and it now showed it has 621 out of 690 cold cranking amps.He said the battery should be good. Does it sound like its good?
What side was the sensor on that you removed the wiring connector from?
If it was from the sensor on top of your PCV Valve, then that is not the correct sensor to unplug, that is the MAP sensor.
The MAF sensor is on the right side, and attached to the throttle body.


If the MAF was bad, and you disconnect it, you do not want to be goosing the throttle as you are describing doing, you are possibly going to flood it, and that is not what you want to do.
If it was the MAP sensor you unplugged, and not the MAF, then now that you have a fully charged battery try it again.
If it was at 12.42 volts before it was at 75% charge, so it is good that you had it charged up the rest of the way, and it is good because I expected it to have a lot less volts do to how much I figured you had been cranking it.
Battery sounds good to go now.


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So I get this memorized better is the MAP sensor is the new one I bought that goes on top of the PCV valve. and trying to learn what the MAP actually does. And the MAF is the sensor that measures the amount of air passing thru the sensor body and ultimately entering the engine thru the throttle body. The PCM uses this information to control fuel delivery- the more air entering the more fuel needed.
Yes the MAP sensor is the one you bought recently, and sits on top of where the PCV Valve goes.
To better explain how your 1 bar Map Sensor works here is a link.
MAP Sensors and how they work

I'd try to explain these myself, but it is easier to give you links to read, this next like has info on the MAF, read the part about a hot wire MAF, that is what we have.
It sounds like you already have an understanding of what the MAF does, this will help you understand how it works, it is responsible for keeping the air/fuel mixture at the proper ratios.
Mass flow sensor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Old 06-07-2014, 03:43 AM   #38
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Yep, I pulled the wrong one. I didn't have time and light to put the battery back in and plus I wanted to let my cousin look at the wiring below the battery to see if he sees anything out of the ordinary before putting the battery back in. If I get up and am able to go get the new vacuum lines and rubber boot then I will install the battery and try unplugging the correct MAF sensor. I have a Haynes General Motors book but its only from the year 1988 to 1999 for the Pontiac. That'* where I got the info about the two sensors out of this book. Well, I have to get to bed to be up in 6 hours and hopefully my cousin will be able to find what it is.. Its been a headache and without the code finder and fuel gauge I'm really lost on what to buy. But I am very thankful for all of your guys help I have been getting. I just remembered to like each of your comments and not sure what that does but I will try to remember to go thru this whole post and like all of yours. You guys are the best!! Im also gona have to read on this site on how to post pictures like you have posted incase I need to post one..
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Old 06-07-2014, 06:42 AM   #39
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Those Haynes manuals are not too good, they are helpful if you already know what you are doing, but nothing beats the factory Service Manual, you can find them on E-Bay for a decent price.

The Thanks feature is just a little way we have to say thanks when a member has been helpful.
When it is used it is appreciated.

Posting pics is pretty easy, you click Go Advance which is next to Quick Reply, and then you click Manage Attachments, there you click Browse, then select the image to be uploaded, then click Upload Images.
Good luck on the tests and all later today!
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Old 06-07-2014, 10:50 AM   #40
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I just did a search on 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.8 factory Service Manual | eBay for the service manual. These are pretty high. Went to go get the part and the truck is running late so im gona put the old vacuum line on and tape the boot where it was cracked for now. I also noticed last night when I took the battery out that when I took the coolant backup container off that it didn't have to much in it.Ive been checking it for weeks prior to yesterday every 3 days or so and it was filled to the line. I will keep you in touch after my cousin gets here and gets the codes and the fuel pressure..
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