Are you making more indicated PSI with the new idler? If you suspect the belt is slipping less, you should be making more boost now, shouldn't you? Or would your boost bypass bleed off any extra?

I have no overboost protection. The JET PCM deletes it. I get about 1/2 pound more on average than before, but the big difference is on instant WOT. The POWER comes on quicker. The belt was lagging during accelleration of engine RPM'*, then catching up. Slip isn't at WOT, it'* on the way to WOT.

Interesting learning experience. Car has alot more bawls than before, and no other changes other than this idler.

Thats just wild, your unlocking so much for these cars! lol
Thanks for being original!

Dear Mr. Wren-

Please unlock my NA "bawls."

Sincerely,

Ben

That is sweet, but I don't know if I have enough bawls to machine my own nuts though, it sounds like it might hurt

He'* single and wasn't using them for anything anyways.

I do question if that takes away any of the strength or holding power.

hehehe this is what I wanted to hear.

No it doesn't. The thin nuts are holding on the two grounds to the studs, right? Then there'* a washer on each, then the bracket for the idler, then another washer and a nut to hold the bracket. You have a stacked interlocking series of nuts holding those grounds.

I machined a total of only about 1/3 of the nut'* thickness. Of the material I removed, half of that was the chamfered area of the thread, so no threads were lost really.

Look carefully at this pic:

See the nut on the far right with the casting marks? See how deep the tapered chamfer is before you even get to a thread? I only removed .050" off each face. For comparison, your spark gap is .060 stock. If I had purchased thin nuts, they would have the chamfer, and I would have lost thread, but I still don't think that'* an issue considering the nuts holding the bracket against these. The thin nuts are BEHIND the new idler bracket.

Being behind..you should be ok...

I approve

Spank you very much sir. Further 'road testing' has shown much more power in the midrange under heavy accelleration. Not really any more boost at WOT, but during the time to get near the higher rpm'* it'* quite noticable.

The best way to describe the belt slip I now know I was obviously having is to say that when you jam the pedal, the engine rpm'* jump up, and at the same time, the bypass closes. This means the Supercharger immediately goes under load, increasing resistance at the pulley, while the engine revs are 'running away' from it. A lag if you prefer, that eventually 'catches up' with itself.

Because of the OEM belt wrap path of the S2 L67, it won't suffer from this problem. But I'd venture a guess that there'* a few S1 L67'* out there doing this, and they don't even know it.