You Series I guys get to have all the fun

I am amazed at the small amount of belt space at the tensioner. The pics make it look like there is almost no clearence at all. That would concern me but I am am old and worry alot.

Again, this is really fine work. Will other Series I cars be able to take advantage of this even if they aren't using 2.0-2.2 inch pullies?

Damn you are good!!

That'* a 2.2' pulley. It'* been running for about 3 months. 2.0" is going on for the track. That'* TWO POINT ZERO on a 94/95 SC and TB (don't forget I swapped). I did NOT make this prototype with a dremel. I made my template for this prototype out of aluminum with a dremel.

It is small. About 1/8" right now, but there is NO rub or flex in the bracket even at WOT under load. The problem are the two nuts BEHIND my idler bracket that hold the ICM ground and battery ground. Those will be changing to half-height nuts soon, increasing the belt offset to the brackt to 1/4 inch or so.

This is something any Series 1 L67 can do with any pulley diameter, but those not running as extremely small pulleys may have to go to a longer belt for it to work. Keep in mind however, that I run a larger diameter water pump pulley which shortens the effective belt length with regards to the AC and Supercharger.

No I ment the new idler pulley. I know you will be running a Dos Punto Cero

Dang. Tight squeeze but it looks like you made good use of the space. Lookin good Bill.

Can't wait to see it in action.

Hey Bill, did you make one for me?! :P :?:

3.0" idler pulley. I could use the same bracket and go with a 3.25" idler with the 2.0" pulley, as I left enough clearance to the ICM bracket specifically for that purpose. I have two options that way.

This isn't the final version. This is just a prototype. The plan is to finalize and simplify it, then turn it over to PulleyBoys for fabrication in order to sell it as a kit with the smaller pulleys. I need to calculate belt lengths for different combinations for those kits.

Keep in mind that anyone else would probably have to install a 3.5" idler in that location if they aren't running the underdrive WP pulley I am, and I didn't leave enough clearance for a 3.5" idler in this design.

It'* a game of give and take.

My car has more pulleys than yours.

wow, nice job on that! once again...YOU ARE THE MAN!

Thank you all for the compliments, but this is really quite a simple setup that anyone could do with the right resources and parts.

I have replaced every pulley (including both tensioner assemblies) on my engine in the last 3 months or so. I saved all the parts. This new idler is made up of:

1/8" steel plate, cut to shape starting with the original ICM wiring harness shield as a template (you should all have this under the ICM bracket, this idler bracket replaces it).

The bolt is the original from the double idler assembly (the one with the ribbed and flat belts on it to the left of the water pump).

The spacing is made up (bolt has a shoulder that fits into the idler, but it'* long enough for TWO) by removing the center spacer that was between the idlers (remember I replaced this and it'* a spare), and putting it on the bolt first, then the idler pulley. That'* the aluminum disk you see in this pic between the bolt and pulley:



After this 'spacer', I used the OEM dust cap and then the idler. The dust cap is CRITICAL. Not only does it protect the bearing, but it also allows the bolts/washers to only contact the face of the inner race so the bearing doesn't sieze up.

The REAR dust cap (you can't see it, but it'* between the idler and the bracket) was taken from a tensioner idler (replaced unit), but I had to enlarge the hole, as it was a different diameter.

I used precision hardened washers to set the offset/spacing from there, and a plain-jane nut.

The idler pulley itself, of course, is new.