Nope. The tuning involved with water injection and all those pulleys rules them out. The pulley drops are the LAST thing you do. You have to get your car to Zero KR before any pulley work.

You have alot of homework to do as well. Nobody can teach you about water injection. You have to research it.

The belts are a good start, although it you show up needed to do belts at NEBF it might be a 10 beer project.

The cam increases your flow. How do you know your EM's can keep up with it? You may have to INCREASE your pulley diameter to make up for it. Matt's car is still up in the air on the whole porting thing.

Best thing you can do is wait on that until John Wikoff does his. There's alot to be learned here, and unless you REALLY know what you're doing, you should wait for more than one car to prove the theory. ssei1995 can tell you all about this. He's a master of the science.

There are so many things on your list to change, you can't afford from a tuning standpoint to do them all at once. When you have problems, you have NFC what change caused the problems in order to correct it by changing it again, or fixing it through some other method. And you don't have time for that and still make a summer meet with the car.

KR testing should be done in hot weather ideally. When I test for KR in the winter, I disconnect my two scoops, put a piece of cardboard between my trand cooler and radiator, and thoroughly heatsoak the engine. And it's still not an accurate indication.

The zilla missed an entire summer in my efforts. And I started in November. It's starting to pay off now, but there's still unknowns. The Series 1 game isn't a known factor like the Series 2 is. They're quite different inside, and some things need to be done still.

Make your car a reliable conservative performer first. And do all the work yourself to get your skills, knowledge, and understanding up to par.

The car is getting alot of maintanence work once I get it back. little things that need to be taken care of are going to be taken care of first. I need to make sure that crunching while turning sound is taken care of and I need to check all the bushings and fittings on the suspension. Then there's the breaks, that's happening before I do anything else.

I'm aware of the work behind the injection. I haven't been sitting still on it; looking for alot of references on the net that I can find about how it changes air density and intake temperature. I'm not messing with the mix. The people who make the kit I plan on using have a precise 50/50 mix they sell and thats what I plan on using.

I'm not interested in it from a "boost" gain. Some people are using the system aggressively to try and get more timing by dumping tons of methanol in there. No chance in hell I'm going to be pumping enough methanol in there to change the air/fuel ratio. What really interests me about it is the almost universal 60-70 degrees on the inlet. Some people I've found are claiming 100 degrees but frankly I think thats bogus. When I do add the system, I'm going to use a mix of pulleys and watch KR like a hawk. I realize I'm going to need different pulleys based on the weather conditions... Its pretty obvious while the temp outside is 50 degrees I'm in better shape then when I'm sitting on a strip in 105 degree weather ;).

I suppose the real reason I've been looking at this is lack of an intercooler. I know you're working on a design but I seriously doubt that I'm ever going to find someone to reproduce what you're making :P This is the bastard stepson version for me.

As for the other side of this.. the porting side; I need to change the coupler on my supercharger anyway, so when I get a spare, I'll do both, plus mildly port and polish one of them. Unfortunately, I lack a hydraulic press but my bearings sound alright so I'm glad I'm not needing to change that... if it comes to it, I'll get a rebuilt one from one of the reccomended vendors.

The other things I planned -- cam and stock ratio roller rockers I'm not going to get to until winter as you said.

Read my reply above yours. I think you were posting when I did it.

Getting a rebuilt SC to port isn't an option. You have to disassemble it, and when you're done, you'll have to replace the bearings again. You need to start with an empty shell.

So what you're saying is that I'd have to do the bearings anyway if I pulled the case for the porting? That is a problem then unless I can find a place in the area that I can rent time on a press.

So.. getting back to my question.. I'm asking you which parts you think I can safely focus on before the trip out West this year?

Which parts? It depends on your own skills and confidence. The problem is you're in a waiting game on the porting. For at least two other cars. One that's done it and has problems, and one that plans it to solve other problems.

Then after the porting, you see where you are and plan pulleys and such based on that. Then you do the water injection, see how much timing you're getting and try to figure out what pulley to go to from there.

All the work I've done on my car since November of '04 is NOT posted. Why? Because it's not proven to my satisfaction yet. That's why I 'recruit' other members to try next when I feel the risk is acceptable and the skills of that member are there. I have to know what I did will work for others. They give validation and I get peace of mind.

I have yet to even START playing with water injection on this new setup. I still have alot of work to do myself.

So we come back to your list. It's aggressive and impressive. But do you really want to be the guinea pig on a Series 1 Cam? Besides the Austrailians, who's done one? Have you ever even seen one done? This isn't something you can do at a meet. It would draw two or three people in full time on one car, and there's no gaurantee it would all get done. You may find surprises as you go.

My personal quandary is whether or not to even try a cam this year. I have problems with the dates of the two big events this year. I don't think I have time before July to do it because of the other projects on both cars, and time will be tight between July and September. I can't risk the car not being ready for Speed Week. Hell, I'm not even sure I NEED or even WANT a cam any more. At least not this year. Maybe over the winter for next year. Again, that opens up another world of potential problems. I won't do a cam until I have money set aside for custom headers. I'm flowing too damn well on the top end now. Adding a cam to that may cause problems in getting the exhaust out.

Morty.

Which bearing s are you talking about pressing?
Case
Nosedrive
Rotorplate

I hear you on the meet.. I'm going to have my own garage to leave the car sitting in while I figure out what to do and how to do it before I tackle a cam change.

Boosty, Referring to the bearings on the case.

I'm thinking of starting with the water injection first because it makes sense in my eyes to get the enabling mods done before I do anything else. (Manifolds, injection, better breaks, locating and eliminating any possible suspension issues). I think there's enough information out there on this for me to tackle it and I believe my skills at this point are up to the task.

You're totally right on the other side of this: I only have one other person's experience that I'm drawing off of when it comes to the camshaft and rockers. Plus I have you and Matt when it comes to the porting. I will wait on these things for now and see where it goes. Edit: And I'm aware he had a hell of a nightmare getting it all working.

When I started this list it was alot of ideas and I admitted privately to the other Bill that I probably worded things wrong. I'm really seeking opinions here on what I can and can't do safely. These are things that I've looked at and things I think I can do assuming I keep learning as I go. I'm not going to some other mechanic to let them do the work for me. No fun in that.

Water injection should be DEAD LAST. You have to have your car running properly every day without the water. This isn't something you run all the time. Or at least most don't.

Start with the basics and get your confidence up. Even if it means you have to pull the top end 3 times. The practice is good. I'm down to less than 4 hours doing SC swaps on the Series 1. Pretty good if you consider our TB and Alt bracket issues as compared to the Series 2.

Doing the basics and doing things repetitively will help you gain knowledge and confidence for the more involved work later. You can't rely on other people for this work. Because when you have problems, they're not going to be there. You have to gain a full understanding of what's involved before you attempt it. You also have to develop the skills in the meantime. This means working on other cars sometimes.