So haro'* will work?

According to my MAGIC book, Haro'* will NOT work for you.

You need 95/96 L36 Manifolds from a Bonneville.

97-current L36 and L67 are DIFFERENT than yours in some way.

drunk bill?

****.

Sorry guys, I'm swamped. I had 95 stuck in my head for some reason.

97-03 L67 or L36 rears from a Bonneville.

95 stuck in your head for some reason?? I've got a FPR stuck in my head for some reason.

So It looks pretty good that haro'* will fit. Maybe send that mani out to have ported?

The two mods that you accomplished, raised the compression in your engine: shaved cylinder heads and the camshaft.

Yes, a high performance camshaft will always increase the cylinder pressure on the engine. In a previous message, you said that you degreed the camshaft. Do you remember the final intake centerline that you installed the cam? If it was too advanced, the cylinder pressure could have increased to a level that you will be experiencing knock all the time, unless you run higher octance gas. If you can post the cam card specs and the intake centerline, I can tell you the effect on your engine and if you need to retard the camshaft.

Yeah, I'm on the same page with him now.... he was thinking I had a '95 for some silly reason



As for degreeing the camshaft, I'm not up on my terminology very well. From what I know, 'degreeing' means installing the cam with advanced or retarded timing based on the dots on the cam & crank sprockets. We installed it with the dots perfectly lined up, so the cam timing isn't any different from stock.

As for the cam specs, here you go. I realize I haven't publicly posted these yet, so perhaps you guys can get a better idea of my setup based on these numbers:

Your cam is not degreed; you just aligned the timing sprockets to the OEM markings. With any high performance camshaft, and specifically with a reground like yours, you need to degree the camshaft in the same fashion as a race engine or high performance build up. With the reground cam, you are at the mercy of how the camshaft was initially set. In many occasions, many cam munufacturers even build-in an advance on the cam even if the cam card does not reflect it.

The properly degree a cam, you need a cam degreeing wheel and a dial indicator to check the opening and closing at the valve. Check out this link and read it so you can understand what cam degreeing is all about:
http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/Page658-663.pdf
The numbers shown in the card are at 050" lift. Since the cam was not degreed, I am not able to figure out the advertised duration; the advertised duration versus the 0.50" numbers, will tell the profile and can telltale the intake lobe centerline versus the card numbers.

That article is an interesting read. We did no kind of degreeing, but the cam can't be that far off because the car actually runs, lol. All our Desktop Dyno projections show my cam profile making power up high with retarded timing and power down low with timing advance. We think the cam must be retarded a little bit because the street performance reflects a sluggish bottom end and plenty of power up at the top.

Despite the fact that we didn't degree it, I don't think we have the time, energy, or money to dig in and correct it. I think I'll just get the PCM tuned according to the way we have the cam currently installed.

HOWEVER....... we might spend the time 'fixing' this issue if there is reasonable belief that it is somehow the cause of my KR. What are you guys' thoughts?