got them today...yep they are going to leak. really stupid design they did, in all honesty it would not cost them much more to change the design a bit.

First stop is a machine shop, to mill out the "manifold plate" side and then they will mill the DP to exhaust side as it will obviously leak as well.

Still trying to come up with a better idea for the y pipe portion....

If I could do it again I would weld the y pipe to the rear header so now you only have 1 side to worry about. If you got them from ZZP, they made a modification to the y-ipie so it shouldn't leak.

Shoulda bought TOG'*.
Mine don't tick and they don't leak.
4 years now and no problems.......knock on wood.

TOGs: $1000+ shipped after its said and done

Pacesetters: $300 shipped + work to fix them...

Nuf said.
Penny wise.......pound foolish.

You can do a lot of mods for $700.

This is why I already told you you would have to get the Y pipe welded in. It fills up the big gap that they have in there. Did your crossover section come with the slits cut already? If not cut some and then RTV the crap out of it and get a good clamp. The one they send with them sucks.

Summary, weld the rear header to Y pipe. Clamp and RTV the crossover side when in.

My headers tick FWIW. Not bad, but it is there.

I'm paying $900 for rent right now....dont exactly have a lot of spending money between paying off some medical bills from when my jaw was broken

Ya, that'* what I meant Hans. I think you made the right decision.

$300 Shipped for Headers

$70 for Sandblasting and milling.

$50 for the coating

$30 for the misc stuff.

$55 shipped for the high flow cat

Not bad so far...Still trying to figure out what to use to cut the exhaust off.

Sawzall, hacksaw or an actual exhaust cutting chain. I found mine at Napa..but the cost is ~40-50. Looks like a pair of pliers with a chain on the end that cuts the pipe.

Sawzall works well if available. Because our exhausts are easy to remove as a complete unit. Maybe unbolt the downpipe from the manifold..drop and remove the entire exhaust. Then you could easily use a hacksaw (lowest cost method I can think of) when you know how long the pipe needs to be. Then reinstall.