Header Install Advice....Headers are in...sorta - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning Talk about modifications, or anything else associated with performance enhancements. Have a new idea for performance/reliability? Post it here. No idea is stupid! (please use Detailing and Appearance for cosmetic ideas)

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Old 09-21-2007, 07:20 AM   #11
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Hans..do you have any type of emissions or visual inspection in your area for emissions equipment?
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Old 09-21-2007, 07:27 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Hans..do you have any type of emissions or visual inspection in your area for emissions equipment?


<-------

no. but I still plan on welding a cat in there.
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Old 09-21-2007, 07:45 AM   #13
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I meant for the EGR. Paul suggests you lose it in the build and it is a decent amount of weight. If you tune, it can be programmed out and it can be retained for looks etc.

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Old 09-21-2007, 03:58 PM   #14
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doesent the egr help lower combustion temps?
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Old 09-22-2007, 02:52 AM   #15
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Quote:
doesent the egr help lower combustion temps?
The recirculated exhaust gas dilutes the intake charge with +500F exhaust gases and it helps by reducing emissions.
Some will insist it reduces combustion temps.....but then so does lowering compression or using a larger pulley.

Cooler is better.

Ditch the EGR
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Old 09-24-2007, 12:22 AM   #16
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See, Hans doesn't belive the man who has installed these already on a 00+ Bonnie and only lives 100 miles away ., By the way Hans, you don't need the dipstick tube like with the TOGS. It doesn't need it. I suggested welding the rear header to the Y pipe to avoid leakage and then RTV and clamp the crap out of the crossover pipe coming into the other side. Can't weld both or it won't go in and will never come out again while the engine is in the car if you ever needed to. Didn't have to trim anything. I used the stock gaskets at 66K with no problems. I haven't had one leak ever. EGR tube does need to be either be trimmed or just block the exhaust side and leave it in there and draw the fresh air. Bent the crap out of mine installing it at regular length and then I got a code due to insufficient flow through the tube because it was pinched off.
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Old 10-03-2007, 08:10 PM   #17
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first of all...

Jared - You already had the w-body dipstick to begin with...I have the bonneville version, they are different between the w-body and h-body.

Back to an update...my score of the day...

http://stores.shamrockperformance.com/Detail.bok?no=98

Its designed to attach to your subframe above a cat/muffler but I'm thinking I'm going to wrap my FWI with it.

it has a retail cost of $70 or so, I picked it up for $10 from a hot rod shop that is going out of business.

I'm almost tempted to wrap the flexportion of my header'* downpipe with it to reduce the ticking.

Anyone think this will not work on the flexpipe? i'm thinking like 5 layers.
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Old 10-04-2007, 12:59 PM   #18
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Yeah, I forget about that I have to think of my engine as a Regal and not a Bonnie with the swap. I always forget the H-body is all skiwmapus (like that? )
I think that stuff would work great. I have been looking for some for a long time at a good price. He have any more??
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Old 10-04-2007, 01:07 PM   #19
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To me honest the flexpipe on the Pacsetter headers never ticked on my car. It wouldn't hurt to add that wrap especally at the price you got it.
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Old 10-04-2007, 02:50 PM   #20
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My flex pipe didnt tick either on my pacesetters
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