you guys can put the iat sensor right in the intense tubing, i just cut a small x in the tubing inbetween the wire ribs close to the filter and poped the iat righ in nice and snug. Thats what i did on my fwi on the 95 ssei.

That seems a little freaky to me. I think I'd rather see you cut an undersized hole and insert a bushing. Then install your IAT.

BTW, the Series 1 IAT is too large in diameter to do this between the coils of the intense tubing.

I left a 1/2" gap between the tubing and filter in my aluminum filter coupling, drilled a hole, inserted a bushing, and installed my IAT right after the filter.

OK, to answer questions everyone had earlier, I ran out this morning and scanned my car (running the JMB Intake). I can officially confirm I had 0 KR. No codes or anything showed up. It is clean as a whistle as I had suspected earlier. I highly doubted I could be running mid-14'* consistently if it had any KR. So I think anyone that had doubts about using this intake can rest assure this is a viable intake we can use provided it is installed correctly.

Interesting. What did you scan it with?

So far, one had KR, one didn't. Wonder what the difference was?

and under what conditions were your scans?

Good point, Toasty. It was probably pretty cold in Chicago yesterday. We won't know much until late spring/summer.

was'nt it descovered that the other was getting False knock, as a direct result of the intake? or am i thinking of another intake all together?

I don't recall the name of the computer we used to scan, but it is a quality scanner that is used at my brother'* shop and serves reliably on the multitude of autos it has been used on.
As far as conditions, it was relatively chilly this past weekend, BUT, someone had made the contention that the intake was knocking and vibrating, therefore causing the KR. Regardless of the temperature, this portion of the issue is proven untrue as long as the intake is mounted correctly. Someone else commented on "heat soak". But again, unless you are running a heat shield wrap the way WillWren mentioned in another posting, all your parts will get hot in the summer regardless of whether it is rubber or metal or whatever. So if you do get KR in the summer, the sole cause is not the material your intake is made out of, but more likely the cumulative effect of ambient air temperature, the temperature at which your engine components operate and/or how quickly you can dissipate the heat your engine and/or components generate. You would generate tons more performance if you were to say vent your engine bay with fresh air compared to fiddling around with what your silly intake pipe is made out of. Its primary function is to suck in fresh air and somehow we are missing this point here. The air traveling through a simple tube is not going to heat up anywhere nearly as much as it will compared to what happens when the air is compressed in the SC regardless of material. (We are talking about a lot of friction in the SC compressor)
So what issue the other person had with this intake is unknown. This may come down to the age old question - is it the component or the user with the problems? or in gearhead terms - is the problem a loose nut in the wheel or the loose nut sitting behind the wheel?

Don't mean to bring up an older post, but I wanted to update everyone about this intake (JNB). I did a re-scan today with warmer weather. It was about 65-70 degrees and somewhat humid today. We were using a Snap-on scanner and tested all kind of throttle positions and loads. We did have a couple instances under heavy load that 1 to 2 degrees of KR popped up. I don't think that is really bad at all and definitely cannot blame it on the intake. I don't think the intake gets "heat soak" either. The computer was registering air intake temp somewhere around 100 degrees depending on if the car was moving, load factors, etc.