I know you most likely already know this but just in case. If you are running nos do not forget to use premium fuel. As far as systems go NX makes a nice wet set up for 4 and 6 cyl engines. Also Eldelbrock makes a nice universal wet system for 4 or 6 cyl. Now the other question I have is, Is your motor built for NOS or are you mostly running a stock motor, (pistons, conecting rods, ect.)?

Spraying before the maf may kill it. IIRC Allmachtige had this problem.
And are you getting a bottle heater and pressure gauge?

Please note that I did not "whip out the plastic". I plan to,around Jan-Mar,which is what this thread is all about. Right now I am running stock everything, except for the list of mods below. What I want to do is get my feet wet next spring at the local strip and will be needing a little extra something. Whatever I get(probably a ZEX wet system) will have every stinking thing I will need to do this safely and correctly. All I use in any car I have is 93 octane. To me the gains in spark plug life and less trouble w/fuel injection problems is worth the extra buck or two at each tankful. I think I want to see what the old girl has left b4 I open her up and start going all mad scientist with maybe an engine swap, rebuild w/ bigger stuff, or whatever Willwren has come up with next !!

Wet is definitely the way to go. More expensive-yes, harder to install-yes.
But, it offers better controlability, and less chance of blowing your motor all over the track.

Quote attributed to the wrong person. Spidey didn't buy yet, I did.

I'm putting mine together out of the spare parts bins around the house. I figure I only need one bottle and can share it between the 87 Camaro and the 90 Bonneville for just playing around. Bottle are pretty expensive (about half the cost of the full kits being sold.) The brackets, hoses, and fogger worked out to about $150. The solenoids, filter, and switches I already had, along with enough steel tubing and AN fittings to finish the engine plumbing. No real need for a bottle heater in Florida. The cycle times at the local strip are pretty long. Never had a problem with the bottle temp returning to ambient temp. Gauge is on the bottle.

Putting the fogger ahead of the MAF is not my favorite place either, but I'll give it a go for a few passes and pack a spare MAF with me. Long term is to drill and tap either the TB behind the throttle plate or into the intake manifold plenum. The general idea is to get the tip of the nozzle out into the airflow inside the manifold while leaving the hose fitting end in a place where it is easy to access (Fuel and NOS jets are sandwiched between the -3 hoses and nozzle fittings, so it'* something you have to be able to get to at the track.)

Haven't mounted the solenoids yet...still trying to find a place for them on the motor. Initial though is to mount them on an aluminum plate and attach that to the top of the rear valve cover. Trying to keep all the wiring and plumbing concentrated in one place. The fuel pressure sender is already connected to the fuel solenoid, so I have a chunk of plumbing ready to go.

When you are done, some pics will be very interesting and a big help,thanks for the note about the governor!

No sweat. I'm still figuring out how to get the bottle on this car. I've got the spare vale covers from the series II 3800. One of them will probably get sacrificed to the NOS gods later this week.

Goal of getting the bottle in the car this week got scrubbed do to lack of time. I spent all day today on installing the trailer hitch and straightening out the damage to the sheetmetal from the fellow who rear-ended me.

One good note. Tapping the rail fuel supply is a no-brainer on these cars. The Schreader fitting on the rail is a -4AN 45 degree male. Just get a 90 degree angled hose end (-4AN of course), remove the schreader valve (comes out of the center just like a tire stem), and connect the fitting. Definately not the plumbers nightmare of the older cars.

Sorry, I missed this post, thanks for bringing this up. Take note Spidey, using high octane gas is recommended by every nitrous supplier and it'* a good recommendation. Goal is to avoid detonation and high octane gas is harder to ignite, so it'* naturally more resistant to detonation. Don't use "octane boost" products, since they really don't work the way real high test gas works. A lot of track sell 100 and higher octane race gas, but for a mild shot, tanking the car up with 90 or better pump gas is good enough.

(Oh how I long for the days when I could get Aviation Gasoline for older carb cars...now days 100LL is all you can get and it will foul the O2 sensor in a hurry.)

To answer your question, I'm going to put the bottle to a stock LN3. The basic premise being that the last time I intentionally tried to grenade a stock motor, I failed and it wouldn't die. That was a 2.8L V6. I figured repeated hits would kill the bearings, they didn't. Motor is still running 12 years later in a fellow'* *-10 pickup. We'll see how this one likes getting hit witha 50hp shot. Later on, I'll be hitting it with a supercharger anyways, so if it'* gonna die, might as well be now.

That'* my logic too!! Get all you can out of them as long as they last!