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Old 08-27-2006, 06:24 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big_news_1
I won't be using the stuff anytime soon, but power is power regardless of how you make it. Heck, I can complain that the only reason the L67 cars are fast is forced induction, and that it'* cheating unless you run naturally aspirated.
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Originally Posted by big_news_1
[
MOST IMPORTANTLY... Spidey didn't start this thread to ask if you guys thought nitrous was ethical or frowned-upon. He just wanted to know if it could be done, and how tough it would be to do it. Let'* not forget that our opinions aren't always required, or even asked for.

Nicely put, I'm tired of people saying you're stupid because you want to do something different. Just because only a few people are doing it doesn't mean it can't be done.
Ethically if you're running NOS be straight up about it for racing, same as you would a turbo or supercharger.

While not having experience with Nitrous I know there are kits out there and people running them. My advice is find out who they are and chat it up with them, I'm sure anyone on here with experience would gladly help you out.

I'm not sure who on here with the 3800 is running the juice but I know GXPVENOM has it in his Northstar.


EDIT-just noticed from your Sig you have an '88 SSE, I don't know how or if that would change things, but hell, an 88 SSE on NOS? I don't care who you are that'* funny right there. I'd go to a race just to see that.
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Old 08-27-2006, 10:32 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by clm2112
You can't shovel big displacement motors in very small packages.
They took a Ford Focus and crammed a Ford V-8 into it.

http://www.automobilemag.com/feature...ford_focus_v8/
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Old 08-28-2006, 01:13 AM   #13
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Ok guys, let'* get this train wreck back on topic. Just to clarify, the original question asked was:

Quote:
Originally Posted by spidey3479
Could I go for instant bolt on power with some nos and does that entail boreing out the cylinders and enlarging the exhaust ports and such?

He did NOT ask the following:

What is the general concensus on nitrous?
Will you folks think less of me if I run nitrous?
Is nitrous cheating?
Can you guys show me examples of big engines swapped into little cars?


I think we are doing Spidey a horrible disservice by telling him he shouldn't use nitrous just because a few of us don't approve of it. There is absolutely nothing wrong with nitrous, and the fact that his thread was hijacked because of "style" preference is ridiculous. If nitrous isn't your thing, don't post. If you have a straight answer for him, provide the info he'* looking for. But don't try to make him feel bad for wanting to use a certain power adder. How would 90% of the club feel if I said it was retarded to use a supercharger? Odds are I would get banned after an extensive battle.

Back on topic. Let'* live up to the excellent reputation we have developed over the years. This is the kind of crap that alienates people.
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Old 08-28-2006, 01:28 AM   #14
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Wow! I knew there would be some strong opinions on this, but I didn't expect this much! I have enjoyed getting all of your opinions and advice. I understand where all of you are coming from with your setups and the advice I have already heard you give on this forum. I think that I will explore this further, to see how long I can keep her running in the form she'* in. The engine is in such good shape that I hate to take her apart w/o a major problem. As I stated, this is a ways down the road(Jan-Mar). If something goes out or breaks before then I may look at a massive rebuild or transplant, but the way she'* runnin now it looks like it'll be the NOS pushin her down the track. I don't know if anyone has read already in another thread, but her OEM tranny is the next thing to get rebuilt. Got a ballpark figure of $600-800 from AAMCO for that, so that is my focus now. Does anyone know anything good or bad about a NOS system called "ZEX, Smart nitrous" it is a dry system, which is another thing I don't understand, what is dry? and what is wet?
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Old 08-28-2006, 08:45 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spidey3479
it is a dry system, which is another thing I don't understand, what is dry? and what is wet?
Wet vs. Dry: "Wet" systems spray the Nitrous Oxide gas and the extra fuel into the plenum of the intake manifold This is like the old way of doing it with carb motors. A "Dry" system consists of multiple sprayers into the intake runners. "NOSzles" use the injector pocket and the stock fuel injectors plug into them, otherwise each sprayer gets a hole drilled and tapped into the runner.

I've only used the wet manifold variety. The spray bars (or fogger if you use that) goes into the manifold either before the TB or after it. Some folks have put a single fogger nozzle into the rubber intake ductwork. Personal preference is to drill & tap the manifold casting behind the TB.

A dry system gives better metering per cylinder, but involves a lot of plumbing with a sprayer at each cylinder.

A wet system is easier to plumb, easier to tune, but like a carb, it is averaging its values on all cylinders...some of the cylinders furthest away from the spraybars may not get their full share of the fuel and nitrous oxide gas.

For a mild shot of nitrous, I would recomend foggers in the TB area. Some of the "Universal" 4cyl kits would likely work just fine, though I'd stick with a Holley NOS kit due to the long term availibility of replacement jets/nozzles/solenoids etc.

Extra precaution: If your kit doesn't have micro-switch for the throttle, then get one and add it yourself. You really want the motor at Wide Open Throttle BEFORE you hit the button to inject the gas and extra fuel. You also want the car moving and into the bottom of the power band before hitting the switch too. That'* how you keep the motor healthy.

Extra, Extra precaution: If you can, plumb a fuel pressure gauge into the injector rail. Don't bother with one of the digital ones, they are too hard to read at a glance. A regular analog gauge is easier to read while you are going down the track. What you are looking for is a gross drop in fuel pressure in the rail when hitting the nitrous...remember, it needs a good supply of fuel to get injected into the manifold with the gas and it'* getting it from the rail. That'* your best warning that trouble is comming.
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Old 08-28-2006, 10:12 AM   #16
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Old 08-28-2006, 02:47 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirthead Racing
You will draw a lot of criticism from people here, some of whom spray other things into thier intakes without considering it "cheating"
Exactly.

All the more reason why people need to answer the posted question or keep their trap closed. Thank you, Dirthead
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Old 08-28-2006, 04:00 PM   #18
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Have you seriously considered supercharging your LN3? PM me. WIllren hates me for it
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Old 08-28-2006, 04:49 PM   #19
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Let'* clear some things up.......spraying water into your TB is simply a form of intercooling, as there is no intercooler available for the S1 at this time. There is no 'power' in water injection. (dirtheadracing, you should know this already, and if you did, you should have put your foot in it somewhere else than in this topic)

Secondly, F14, I don't hate you for SC'ing the LN3. I merely pointed out all the issues you hadn't considered or will have to confront sooner or later.

Our goal here is to help people do things right the first time, if at all possible. Doing it is one thing. Doing it to make it last and fit your repair budget is a totally different issue.
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Old 08-28-2006, 06:24 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
spraying water into your TB is simply a form of intercooling, as there is no intercooler available for the S1 at this time.
Have you considered using Nitrous as an intercooler. I see one of the suppliers has a coil intended to use nitrous'* latent heat to run a cooling coil inside a plenum or intercooler. Doesn't look like they are recirculating it, so it must be dumped "over the side" so to speak.

Spidey: That'* another little thing about nitrous. When it is sprayed into the manifold or runners, it changes from a liquid to a gas. In doing so, it sucks a lot of energy out of the manifold in the form of heat and really cools off the intake charge. It'* like the freon in the AC system in that regard...it pulls a lot of energy out of the enviroment when it changes state from the pressure drop. Watch out for frost on the plumbing. It'* also why I prefer to inject it into the manifold AFTER the throttle body, so it doesn't hit the TB blade or MAF sensor. On a dry system, it doesn't have a lot of time to pull energy from the manifold, since it is so close to the intake valve.
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