You wouldn't get me to install Nitrous on either of my cars if you gave the system to me. My goal is to achive the most power I can by improving on the factory parts. Which is exactly what I've done.

FYI, my water injection was not used at Woodburn this year. The tank was in the car, but I never turned the system on.

More work will be happening (again) to the SC and LIM over the winter for even further gains.

I think it sounds like the Zex Dry System would be my best bet. It has alot of advantages equipment wise and from what little I have read it is the easiest to install. I've got alot of time and reading to do before I buy the system so I'll let you guys know when I do it and what it does for me. When and if I run into any engine problems,i.e. anything that will require a rebuild I will be back to get more info, especially from Willwren. You are a mad man!

Hey Willwren, I found a full set of hood vents on ebay only a week after I saw yours. Of course I snatched them up. Hope I do as good a job on the install as you did. Thanks for all the advice and info, everybody!!!! :P

My recommendation is that you go with a wet shot. There is less of a chance of you going lean with a wet shot, if you run a dry shot and one of your injectors gets plugged, or somehow restricts fuel, boom, burned piston. With a wet shot, the fuel is shot in with the nitrous, a (in my opinion) better way to do it. I know 3 people here who run nitrous, and they all love it.

:?

Need to clarify this statement.
There IS potential power in water injection besides the obvious cooling effect of 1% hp gain for every 10 F of cooling.
It will allow you to increase timing and boost without KR. That is where you derive the most power.

I think I'll reiterate my recommendation for doing a wet system. (which narrows the selection to a fogger type.)

Thanks for starting this thread Spidey. Made me go back and read up on the installation instructions for various systems I haven't used.

Also, I've got to correct my definition of wet vs dry. Looks like most of the dry systems are using the stock injectors to provide the extra fuel by messing around with the rail pressure while shooting just the nitrous gas. The more I read into the instructions, the less warm and fuzzy feeling I get about "dry" systems. That'* asking an awful lot of the injectors..providing the base fuel charge AND the additional fuel for the nitrous.

I know the wet system (be it metering bars, single fogger, or multiple foggers) are working systems that don't dick with the stock engine'* fuel system, save for tapping the high pressure fuel to feed it'* own metering jets. To me, that'* still the way to go if you want to put the bottle to the car.

Now, hmmm...I've got this spare bottle and solenoids...perhaps I should put the blower and the bottle on the LN3.

Wet is the only way to go to be safe.

The Zex systems seem to be very user friendly and something I think I could understand and install myself. I'll trust your judgement in the wet systems. I have gotten the same reactions and advice from some friends and gearheads in my own town. Would it be a good idea to increase any of the exhaust system sizes prior to adding and using this on my car? Right now I still have the stock 2.25" stainless steel, one in two out system.(I love the sound!) Maybe go to a 3" with PEMs? I had decided to go to Autolite Extreme plugs for this system also, good choice or is there a better iridium plug? Or are any plugs I use going to be toast after I make a few runs w/ this wet system?

You don't really need to do anything with the exhaust system to start with. In terms of volume, the motor is going to be breathing the same volume of gas through it. What you are changing is the amount of oxygen in that volume.

Spark Plugs: Type doesn't matter as much as heat range. You go down in heat range to help prevent detonation. On a little shot of nitrous, the stock plugs are fine. Bigger shots, start going to a colder plug.

Whipped out the plastic this morning. Ordered a soft-plume fogger nozzle and jets 30, 22, 21, and 20. Figure on using a 30 (NO2) / 22 (Fuel) as a starting point and fog the mixture into the duct between the filter box and the TB (not my favorite place, but it will keep me from pulling the intake manifold right now to drill and tap for the nozzle.) Need to stop at Central Florida Hydraulic today and get the -4AN tube fittings along with another supply line & bulkhead fitting for the trunk. I figure I can get the basic plumbing done to the chassis this weekend.

Nothing bad with supercharging an LN3 if you understand the other risks involved (transmission) and other stuff