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2000 Chevrolet Silverado 4x4 5.3 Front End Issue

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Old 05-04-2020, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by anttt
Local tire shop said they have high & low spots. Recommended me get brand new ones. These have about 70% tread.
That'* called cupping. Cause is likely from bad struts.
Old 05-05-2020, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by CathedralCub
So . . . the brand new hub is bad?
The wheel hub assembly was replaced almost 6 months ago.
Old 05-05-2020, 12:14 PM
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I didn't see you post how many miles your truck has. Or, how many miles the ball joints have. I changed my upper and lower ball joints and outer tie rod ends and front hubs on both sides of my 2000 Silverado Z71 a couple of years ago at about 190K or 200K miles. Buy good brands!!!! There is a wide price range in ball joints. Same brand ball joints were about half price at RockAuto vs the price in my local store. Pay attention to the orientation instructions on the ball joints to avoid doing it twice. I had to grind off the top of the stock upper ball joints to press it out. I wonder how many cents GM saved by riveting in a ball joint in instead of using an easier to remove method. It would have been worth a few bucks extra money when buying the truck to know I was buying a design that is easier to maintain and repair. Many cars today don't even have grease fittings on the ball joints. That is like designing the vehicle to need a major repair in about half the mileage you can probably get if you grease the ball joints every or every other oil change. Probably lots of opportunities to improve the ease of maintenance such as making the holes in the head larger that the push rods go through to be able to change the lifters without removing the heads
I guess there is a a chance your new hub bearing could be bad after only 6 months but there might also be a chance that your mechanic might have misdiagnosed the problem. Poor alignment can cause a cupping problem on the tires like someone else mentioned and once it starts it can be hard to get rid of. Not sure you can make it go away. I had a cupping problem on the tires on a Jeep cherokee due to improper alignment and/or bad shocks and I think a proper alignment and new shocks finally made it go away. Misdiagnosis of problems happens a lot. I was having trouble finding the cause of a P0300 problem and my dealership told me Cyl #1 was totally dead (zero compression) and 3 other cyl had 70% less compression than the other 4 cyl. They had only checked the amp draw while cranking the engine and charged me $150. Also, the first time they tried it they said it tried to crank. So that means they probably didn't even pull the fuel pump fuse before doing the test so they had also washed down the cyl walls with fuel. I drove the truck home and verified all Cyl had good compression and low lead down with actual gages. I pulled the Valve covers to change =valve seals and foundt Cyl 3 exhaust spring was broke. After fixing the spring my truck with 225K miles is running so smooth again is have to rev the engine to check is it running. I suggest you get a second opinion on the bad hub bearing or check can you feel play yourself. It is possible whoever installed it set the torque too tight on the wheel nut. Sometimes it pays to DIY to make sure it is done right even it it takes you more time than a professional.
Old 05-05-2020, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Birdhunr
I didn't see you post how many miles your truck has. Or, how many miles the ball joints have. I changed my upper and lower ball joints and outer tie rod ends and front hubs on both sides of my 2000 Silverado Z71 a couple of years ago at about 190K or 200K miles. Buy good brands!!!! There is a wide price range in ball joints. Same brand ball joints were about half price at RockAuto vs the price in my local store. Pay attention to the orientation instructions on the ball joints to avoid doing it twice. I had to grind off the top of the stock upper ball joints to press it out. I wonder how many cents GM saved by riveting in a ball joint in instead of using an easier to remove method. It would have been worth a few bucks extra money when buying the truck to know I was buying a design that is easier to maintain and repair. Many cars today don't even have grease fittings on the ball joints. That is like designing the vehicle to need a major repair in about half the mileage you can probably get if you grease the ball joints every or every other oil change. Probably lots of opportunities to improve the ease of maintenance such as making the holes in the head larger that the push rods go through to be able to change the lifters without removing the heads
I guess there is a a chance your new hub bearing could be bad after only 6 months but there might also be a chance that your mechanic might have misdiagnosed the problem. Poor alignment can cause a cupping problem on the tires like someone else mentioned and once it starts it can be hard to get rid of. Not sure you can make it go away. I had a cupping problem on the tires on a Jeep cherokee due to improper alignment and/or bad shocks and I think a proper alignment and new shocks finally made it go away. Misdiagnosis of problems happens a lot. I was having trouble finding the cause of a P0300 problem and my dealership told me Cyl #1 was totally dead (zero compression) and 3 other cyl had 70% less compression than the other 4 cyl. They had only checked the amp draw while cranking the engine and charged me $150. Also, the first time they tried it they said it tried to crank. So that means they probably didn't even pull the fuel pump fuse before doing the test so they had also washed down the cyl walls with fuel. I drove the truck home and verified all Cyl had good compression and low lead down with actual gages. I pulled the Valve covers to change =valve seals and foundt Cyl 3 exhaust spring was broke. After fixing the spring my truck with 225K miles is running so smooth again is have to rev the engine to check is it running. I suggest you get a second opinion on the bad hub bearing or check can you feel play yourself. It is possible whoever installed it set the torque too tight on the wheel nut. Sometimes it pays to DIY to make sure it is done right even it it takes you more time than a professional.

Cupping is easy to make go away. I’ll buy new tires. Probably should have done that in the first place.

and I did check the push pull method. No pay at all in the beating. But when you turn the wheel by hand there is a slight noise that sounds like there may be sand somewhere. Wouldn’t surprise me. We’ve had a ton of rain the last 3 months and I’m a cable contractor so I’ve been in a few muddy situations.

I’m going to replace the front two tires and see what happens from there. I don’t trust local mechanics since I had to have this truck aligned 3 times when I first got it and it had stock wheels and tires.
Old 05-05-2020, 01:27 PM
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You are probably right about the bearing noise source but, since we both have 2000 4WD trucks, I want to make sure you saw my comment in my Broke Exhaust valve thread about replacing the 4WD control board. Hopefully you have a manual shift to 4WD instead of the Lazy man electric shift. . Anyway I was told the OEM board can fail to shift all the way into or out of 4WD and cause major damage. So, If you have an electric shift and it hasn't been replaced with a newer board you might want to follow my post about Broken Exhaust valve spring where I mention a fix I paid for to replace the 4WD shifter control board. I trust the shop that recommended the work so hopefully the community confirms the board fix / replacement was needed and I didn't get too overcharged for the work and hopefully that is a repair you don't need on your truck.
Old 05-05-2020, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by CathedralCub
So . . . the brand new hub is bad?
If it was a cheap chinese hub, then I would agree that its bad already. Especially if he'* running larger tires.
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