problem identification and solution -- resolved.
#11
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Originally Posted by jwakamud
on my way to work today, i watched the DIC battery reading. reproduced the result, and the DIC dropped from 14.9 volts to 14.0 volts, then jumped right back up. verdict?
#12
happened right when i hit the button to roll two windows up at the same time.
so if i were to address this issue, first step would be to get the alternator checked at autozone. if it fails, replace it. check battery cables too, just to cover bases.
and if it passes, new plugs and wires?
or is there another issue that the strain on the alternator is just revealing to me that i need to address?
so if i were to address this issue, first step would be to get the alternator checked at autozone. if it fails, replace it. check battery cables too, just to cover bases.
and if it passes, new plugs and wires?
or is there another issue that the strain on the alternator is just revealing to me that i need to address?
#13
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Originally Posted by jwakamud
and if it passes, new plugs and wires?
or is there another issue that the strain on the alternator is just revealing to me that i need to address?
or is there another issue that the strain on the alternator is just revealing to me that i need to address?
#15
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
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Interesting. I wonder if the old wires/plugs had enough resistance that they were drawing the current down enough to not quite misfire..but cause a lesser than acceptable spark.
#16
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Originally Posted by jwakamud
UPDATE: been awhile, but thought id post the resolution.
swapped the plugs/wires. the problem is gone.
swapped the plugs/wires. the problem is gone.
Does your boost gage move when you roll the windows up or down? Mine does, and it happens consistently on both of my bonnies, but it'* only noticeable while idling.
#17
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Just for grins, I think you ought to do a careful inspection of your battery cables. Every car that I've owned that ever had the headlights dim when you do other electrical things had corroded battery cables.
I don't just mean the connector at the battery, either. I mean corrosion down the length of the cable, typically the positive cable, inside the insulating sheath. This eventually manifested itself by the car refusing to start after driving places. After shotgunning replacing the battery and alternator, the battery cables were the missing link. Just check them, okay?
Also, some other members had corrosion at the grounding point of many wires in an area under the carpet on the passenger side interior. While I have not experienced that, it'* another culprit of bizarre electrical issues.
I don't just mean the connector at the battery, either. I mean corrosion down the length of the cable, typically the positive cable, inside the insulating sheath. This eventually manifested itself by the car refusing to start after driving places. After shotgunning replacing the battery and alternator, the battery cables were the missing link. Just check them, okay?
Also, some other members had corrosion at the grounding point of many wires in an area under the carpet on the passenger side interior. While I have not experienced that, it'* another culprit of bizarre electrical issues.
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