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I really need help deciding (L67 swap or SSEi)

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Old Feb 14, 2006 | 05:19 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by randman1
Fuel pump module is simple, just don't forget to remove it from the donor car along with a length of the harness. I mounted mine in the general factory location and only had to run 2 additional wires if memory serves me right.



I used the entire tank assembly. Fuel pump, sender and all. Be carefull with the fuel level operating range though. The senders changed from 0 ohms empty/90 ohms full in 96 to 40 ohms empty/250 ohms full in 97
can you just get a high flow warlboro pump and leave the wiring the same?
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Old Feb 14, 2006 | 09:47 PM
  #52  
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Good question. The module produces a dual pump speed. I don't know whether it is normal and WOAH! speeds versus normal and fuel economy speeds.

I'd read up on it if Boosty wasn't holding my manuals hostage. I think he'* gonna keep it until I get that LN3 drive train out of his garage. Sorry, Bill.
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Old Feb 15, 2006 | 10:49 AM
  #53  
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Also, the fuel lines are different between L36 and L67. The L36 has the plastic 90* ends, and the L67 has the stainless straight ends.
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Old Feb 15, 2006 | 12:49 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by randman1
Good question. The module produces a dual pump speed. I don't know whether it is normal and WOAH! speeds versus normal and fuel economy speeds.

I'd read up on it if Boosty wasn't holding my manuals hostage. I think he'* gonna keep it until I get that LN3 drive train out of his garage. Sorry, Bill.
Hostage...lol... they are on the couch next to the code reader instructions and package you left with me.

I like the hostage idea though..

The pump puts out about 45lbs at idle and normal cruising. WOT spikes it up to 60lbs
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Old Feb 15, 2006 | 02:51 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by ChaseSmith
Also, the fuel lines are different between L36 and L67. The L36 has the plastic 90* ends, and the L67 has the stainless straight ends.
is is like that for all L36'*? i didnt know if 96'* were an oddball
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Old Feb 15, 2006 | 03:01 PM
  #56  
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96 L67 fuel lines look just like 97 L67...so at least that one didn't change...I think all L36'* are the same.

This is an L36
Name:  L36FuelRailConnections.jpg
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This is an L67
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Old Feb 15, 2006 | 04:42 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by ChaseSmith
Also, the fuel lines are different between L36 and L67. The L36 has the plastic 90* ends, and the L67 has the stainless straight ends.
Very good point. That could easily be overlooked. Personally I would not be comfortable with some sort of adaptor on the stock fuel lines to connect to the L67 rail. I'd swap the lines. Heck, once you got the car torn down that far, swapping the lines will only take an hour or so more.
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Old Feb 17, 2006 | 07:42 PM
  #58  
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I did not mention the fuel pump as I figured that was a given the l36 pump is not good enough. Those plastic fuel lines from the l36 won't work on the l67 but if you trace back to the firewall you will find nice metal lines you can just replace the line from there to the engine. I had to do that with mine as the guy I got the car from cut the plastic lines when prepairing to pull the old engine. The control module is to keep the fuel pump working pumping less fuel until needed, some say its not needed as the fuel system will just return the extra fuel to the tank when not using boost. I always add either the fuel speed control module or use the GTP, Regal dropping resistor and the second relay to control it. The dropping resistors are $66 cdn from the dealer compared to 3 or 4 hundred dollars for a new control module. Dan
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