The Intense PCM is probably lower cost than outright replacement from the dealer.

You mention wires being frayed. Has anyone checked to ensure continuity from the engine side fo the harness to the pcm pins to ensure the signal is getting there all the time?

That would be about the only thing I can think of before trying a new pcm.

Along with checking continuity make sure the wire is not shorting to ground.

A while back while taking apart the harness checking to see if I find any shorts or kinks on the number 7 black wire (camshaft position signal) witch was frayed by the K&N cone air filter and not finding any.. I replaced the black wire anyway from the pin on the pcm plug harness for piece of mind.

I few days ago I was curious and open the pcm to see if I see any thing wrong in there..I followed number 7 pin connection all the way to the bottom of the computer mother board, and connected the harness back on without the metal cover. I put the multimeter on the continuity diode test position and probed one wire on the bottom of the pcm mother board, and the other probe on the icm plug and the signal sounded.

Hey Ted thanks,
How would I know or check to see if it is shorting to ground?

Both ends of the wire need to be disconnected then just check the resistance between either end of the wire & ground.

both ends from icm to pcm?...and am I checking ohms?

It looks like you &/or your mechanic already checked the wiring but there are 2 that I would recheck for continuity & shorting to ground.
1st is the black wire that runs from PCM terminal 7 to ICM terminal F.
2nd is the Brown/White wire that runs from Crank Sensor terminal A to ICM terminal J.

For both continuity & shorting to ground you'll be checking resistance (ohms). After disconnecting the wiring harnesses from PCM, ICM & Crank Sensor connect the meter leads to both ends of the black wire & then the brown/white wire. Post the results for us but both wires should have very low resistance. To check for a short to ground connect one meter lead to something metal on the engine & the other lead to either end of the black then brown/white wire. Both readings should be near infinity.

Edit - before reconnecting the wiring harnesses check both the female & male ends of all the connections for any signs of corrosion & bent or broken pins. Examine #7, F, J & A very carefully.

If you did in fact follow the diagnostic link I provided, you should have already tested the wiring. (For instance steps 7, 10, and 12.) However, repeat them per what TT gave you because we want to make certain that all bases are covered before you spend money on a PCM.

I replaced the cam sensor pigtail connector just yesterday to make sure with no luck..weeks ago I took apart the harness from cam sensor to crank sensor and icm there was a plug right by the coils.I disconnected that plug witch separated the icm, crank, and cam harness from the pcm harness... Now I just had icm, cam and crank harness out ..took all the tape off and notice there was pressure soldering done to the wires that connect together with cam and crank to icm. The soldering looked as it was coming apart..I re_soldered and check it with meter, can't remember what ohms I got but, there was that beeping sound when I put the meter at continuity diode test position on all connections..
I'll check again for the ohms and get back to you.
Thanks.

Yeah...do try to get an actual reading. The continuity test can respond with several hundred ohms of resistance, which is well outside the required zero to 5 ohms.