Hey Archon,
another attempt with taking apart all the wires from pcm to icm to cam sensor plug everything read 3ohms all wires were intact.still have the ses light on..do not know were to go next. could it be the pcm or maybe the magnet?

OK, if the resistance from the ICM to PCM was 3 ohms, that'* ok. However, if you measured each individually, and they were both 3 ohms for a total of 6, that would be just outside what the specs recommend.

Referring back to this....
P0341

Do what it says in step 6 and then step 8. You've already done 7.

[quote="Archon"]OK, if the resistance from the ICM to PCM was 3 ohms, that'* ok. However, if you measured each individually, and they were both 3 ohms for a total of 6, that would be just outside what the specs recommend.

Referring back to this....
P0341

Hey Archon,
It has been awhile just been busy with other things.. however, the car still has the same error code: cam position sensor...it is still running good that is why I been procrastinating but, I have not forgotten I will be soon checking it again with the info you sent me and will give you an update. Thanks again, I appreciated your help.

Hello, Is It possible a camshaft Interrupter-Magnet can go bad I have checked everthing from wires to connecters, coils, pcm, icm,and replaced the cam sensor..still getting error code P0341. I followed the steps from Diagnostic Trouble Code Test description P0341 ALLDATA 1 thru 32 .."Thanks, Archon" for sending me that. I ended up with step 30:
"replace a faulty or missing cmp sensor magnet on the camshaft sprocket"
I've checked and my magnet is there..Can the magnet be weak? It has pull when i put metal on it.
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In step 26, the voltage toggled between 0 and 5 volts? If so, it would seem as if the magnet is fine, otherwise it wouldn't have enough strength to force the cam sensor to switch. It'* possible, but unusual, for a magnet to get weak.

On step (4) I disconnected the PCM with the magnet directly in front of the cmp sensor my volts measured at 5 volts .. then I turned the harmonic balancer with a ratchet to turn the magnet away from the cmp sensor (I viewed this with a mirror) it measured at 0 volts. So I'm assuming that the magnet is working.
Now on step (26) it seems like I'm doing the same thing. Difference being the PCM is now connected and I'm turning the engine with the starter instead of a ratchet on the harmonic balancer..While bumping the engine with out starting it kept jumping from 0 volts to 2 and change volts no higher then 3 volts

Interesting. That is opposite of what it should be. It should be 0 when in alignment with the magnet, and 5 when away from the magnet. That would certainly set the code. IIRC you've replaced the CMP sensor at least once. Perhaps it'* faulty, or they gave you the wrong one?

Sorry about that.. your correct, I got my numbers mixed up it did read 0 volts with cmp sensor directly in front of magnet and five turned away.
But, with step 26 it only jumped from 0 volts to 2.something volts would not make it to 3. is that normal?

I can only guess on what may be happening within the PCM, but by the voltages that it says you should find, it sounds like it may be using logic gates. If so, it would look for around zero (may go up to almost 1 volt) for an "off", and a "high" (maybe around 2.5 and above) for an "on". Hanging around 2 can put it in the "beats me whether it should be on or off" state for the circuit.

This lower voltage could be caused by the supply not being able to supply enough current to keep the voltage high enough (bad wiring or sensor), or something on the output side dragging it down (again bad wiring (resistive short) or bad parts like the ICM or PCM). Without re-reading all this, I believe that you have replaced or swapped with a known good, the ICM and CMP, as well as checking the wiring. At this point, it sounds as if everything but the PCM has been checked. That being bad would be unusual, but not unheard of.

If you can try to get access to a scan tool where you can check the crank and cam sensors signals that the PCM is seeing.

maybe I should replace the pcm before replacing the magnet?
I should go with the pcm since I told you my K&N air filter was sitting on top of the pcm and wires and it frayed two wires.. one being the number "7 black wire cam signal "..So I'm thinking maybe that shorted out something inside the pcm..Now if I go that route should I just get a intence pcm? Don"t really know what it is but, I see you and others mention having it..Is there a big difference in price?