What's your favorite wax? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


Detailing & Appearance Discuss washing, waxing and detailing information as well as interior/exterior cosmetic modifications. This includes neons, body, cosmetic wheels, etc. Even under the hood detailing.

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Old 04-02-2008, 05:26 AM   #11
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The 3M seems a bit harsh. Why do you need that strong of an abrasive?

If you want a decent wax recommendation I would look to P21S or S100. Both are said to be the same with the S100 costing less. It will make a dark color car really POP.

If you are looking for a sealant then LG is the sealant of preference here at BC. I prefer Zaino and anyone I have applied it for has been happy with the results. However it is a bit pricy.

Good luck with the detailing and be sure to post pics.
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Old 04-02-2008, 09:46 AM   #12
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My favorite right now is Collinite 845 that was mentioned. This stuff will easily last 5 months or more. And I think it looks great. It goes on very easy because it'* a liquid (much like ketchup) and buffs off easy. Another great thing is you can use it on any part of the car. It doesn't leave a white residue on trim either. I just tried it on my windows in the fall and it worked great. I also found it shines up and protects the plastic trim around the windows.

I just got a bottle of Clearkote Carnauba Moose wax that I'll be trying in the coming months. It'* supposed to give awesome depth and wetness for dark colors, and actually last about three months. I'll give a review on it when I try it out.
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Old 04-02-2008, 10:18 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95SLE
The 3M seems a bit harsh. Why do you need that strong of an abrasive?
There are spots that I rattle canned clear coat where I filled and touched up paint. I'm going to try and get those spots a little less rough looking with the heavy cut. I've done it once when I had extra time over fresh clear, and it worked awesome. As for the swirl remover, well... you don't know what a real swirl looks like until you've seen my car lol. Final glaze I'm not quite certain I'm going to use at the moment.

Claybar before everything, ofcourse.
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Old 04-02-2008, 12:11 PM   #14
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By the way, you have the coolest dog on this planet
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Old 04-02-2008, 02:08 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laxmangl
By the way, you have the coolest dog on this planet
x2.

http://www.liquidglass.com/lgpolish.htm
This the stuff? Found 16oz. @ Autozone & Advance Auto Parts for $22.99.
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Old 04-02-2008, 02:32 PM   #16
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OK, some history on Liquid Glass... I'll try to get this right, but it has been a while.

Anywho, Liquid Glass came to be when 2 brothers were making a product called Finish First. (This is what I use on my cars.) The brothers were successful in coming up with a VERY GOOD synthetic polish. They were doing well, and as families go, they had a bit of a falling out. So they decided to part ways and do their own thing. One took the Finish First formula and name and continued with it. The other took the Finish First formula and created Liquid Glass. Both were essentially the same product after the separation, but with 2 different names. The marketing of Liquid Glass went the way of the big box store market. Hence it can be found in auto parts stores, etc. Finish First went the way of authorized resellers only. This is what I was told along the way. Both are excellent, and provide the same results. Just two different companies now and two different ways of marketing them.

I use Finish First...simply because I am a dealer. I happened into the product when I bought my first Grand National and swore I'd NEVER buy another black car again. When I found out how well it worked, and my customers went bananas over the finish, I decided to stay with Finish First...established reputation and all with my current customers. So, the bottom line, if you can get Liquid Glass, or Finish First, you're set.

Some additional input to Will'* info.
Wiping off - no buffing. This stuff works wonders and doesn't require buffing. To remove, simply wipe it off. An example I use of how hard you need to wipe...put on a nice soft pair of all cotton jogging pants. Walk by the car and brush up against the side of the waxed car. That'* all the pressure and effort needed to remove it. It'* just a simple wipe.
Coffee Break Time When you put this on, it needs to set up and cure. There is a chemical reaction taking place, and it takes at least 15 minutes to happen. If you put it on and wipe it off immediately, you get little to no benefit at all. Let it sit. Get a coffee...just walk away. When I do my car, I put it on when I get home from work, and let it sit overnight. I wipe it off the next morning. Still as easy as ever...but the hard protection is there and lasts longer.
Thinner is BETTER When applying, you really won't even see the wax at first if you apply it properly. A dime size drop does 2 square feet. As it cures, it will eventually haze up. That takes 10 minutes or so. Then wait like was said and let it do the work. If you apply too much, it may streak a little bit. I suspect that'* what'* happening to Will, but it will clear up. If it bugs you, you can wipe it with a very slightly dampened cloth and the streaking should go away...but just use less in the first place and it shouldn't happen.
Can it be used on glass For legal reasons, we never recommend the use of any product on glass that wasn't designed for glass. That being said, I use it on my glass all the time. It is optically clear, and water rolls off the windows like the rest of the car. Wipers work better and it doesn't cause wiper chatter like a wax would.
This stuff is slippery when applied, be careful I recently had a friend that used it on his wheels on his wifes new Outback. He took the wheels off the car, cleaned them inside and out. Waxed em up and put them back on the next day. Several days later his wife complained about the Outback handling poorly on the road. He took it out for a drive and it drove like it was gonna fall apart. Something was wrong in the steering. He jacked up the car to investigate and found the problem. The lug nuts he had put on properly, with a calibrated torque wrench, had become loose to being only finger tight! He told me he was tired of the dirt sticking in the little lug holes, so we waxed the holes, and the cone seats of the wheel, as well as waxed the lug nuts, NOT the studs, just the mating surfaces. The wax was slippery enough to let the lugs back off. DOH! A little rubbing alcohol to remove the wax from the cone seat of the wheels and lugs and the problem was gone. That one even shocked me.
Just my .02 - I hope this info is useful to someone.
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Old 04-02-2008, 02:34 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by putertopia

http://www.liquidglass.com/lgpolish.htm
This the stuff? Found 16oz. @ Autozone & Advance Auto Parts for $22.99.
That'* the stuff.
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Old 04-02-2008, 02:52 PM   #18
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Looks like I'll have to be buying some Liquid Glass myself. Wren'* results have impressed me enough. I am a broke college student so the price is a little steep but if it produces those kind of results, it'* totally worth it IMO.
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Old 04-02-2008, 03:28 PM   #19
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The price above is the big can. My Autozone has the smaller can for ten buckaroos.

I also use it on my glass. If you have cats, TRUST me, they learn very quickly there is no traction on the green cars and stay away. This is a HARD coat finish. Not a soft wax. It provides true protection, but you MUST strip all wax off first.

Just follow the directions on the can, especially the time between coats. As HurstGN said above, it needs time to cure. I do applications 24 hours apart. If you do two back to back, you CAN get hazing in the bottom coat that won't buff out. If you do it right, this is as close to a clearcoat (very slippery clearcoat, I can do a demonstration later today on that with my beloved beer glass) as you can get without a paint gun.
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Old 04-02-2008, 04:50 PM   #20
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A buddy of mine is going to go in half with me on it, and he'* going to wax his civic with it lol. I think I'll be using a bit more, but from the sounds of it, it won't require too much at all.
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