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'04 Classic intermittent cranking no-start

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Old Apr 28, 2019 | 11:52 AM
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Old Apr 28, 2019 | 12:02 PM
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Underhood Electrical Center or Junction Block ReplacementRemoval Procedure
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection in Engine Electrical.
  2. Remove the air cleaner assembly. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement in Engine Controls.
  3. Remove the nut retaining the positive battery cable lead to the underhood electrical center, then reposition the cable lead away from the electrical center.
  4. Remove the electrical center cover.
  5. Remove all of the fuses and the relays.
  6. Reach under the front of the electrical center and press up on the relief in order to release the retainer tab.
  7. While pressing up, slide the electrical center forward.
  8. Disconnect the electrical cable retainers at the rear of the electrical center.
  9. Release the box retainer next to the electrical cables.
  10. Turn the electrical center upside down and open the lower cover.
  11. Disconnect the instrument panel (IP) wiring harness individual connectors from the junction block.
  12. Loosen the bolts retaining the engine, IP, and forward lamp wiring harness connectors to the junction block.
  13. Disconnect the engine wiring harness connector from the junction block.
  14. Disconnect the IP wiring harness connector from the junction block.
  15. Disconnect the forward lamp wiring harness connector from the junction block.
  16. Remove the electrical center box.
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Old Apr 28, 2019 | 05:17 PM
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okay, I've got the box upside down and open now, looking at the wire colors underneath. Assuming that there'* no serious electrical acrobatics going on between the underside and the topside of the fuse box, the two red circles I've drawn on these pictures should be pretty well lined up. I *am* seeing a green wire with a white tracer nearby, but it doesn't connect particularly close to the fuel pump relay. The closest 4 are two greys, a brown, and a pink.

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Old Apr 28, 2019 | 08:29 PM
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I would unbolt them and look at the pins where they connect and make sure everything is clean and tight.
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Old Apr 28, 2019 | 08:33 PM
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Brain fade. Are we looking for the fuel pump feed?
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Old Apr 29, 2019 | 05:46 PM
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Yes, we're looking for the ECM signal wire going to the fuel pump relay. I think the green wire with a white tracer is not correct, because I get infinite resistance between the wire and the pin slot. Even with a bad connection I should be seeing something.
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Old Apr 29, 2019 | 08:13 PM
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See if it gets grounded.
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Old May 2, 2019 | 06:18 PM
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so, looking at the underside of the fuse box, having a lot of trouble getting the 3 big connectors off so I can inspect the underside, this is one difficult problem. I loosened the bolts, and it feels like they're out now, but the connectors aren't moving without a fight. I can rock one of the connectors back and forth, but I can't free it, I'm afraid I'll break the wires if I pull any harder. anybody here know what'* going on?
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Old May 2, 2019 | 06:24 PM
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You need to keep turning out the bolts. It'll come apart.
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Old May 4, 2019 | 04:18 AM
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okay, I'm a little upset now, I put the car back together to go out and get some gas, now I have 3 more electrical problems... the gas and coolant temp gauges aren't working, and my automatic headlights aren't working... now manual headlights I can handle, but no temp or fuel gauge? that'* a problem.
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