Also, how are your CV axles?


Hows the mount on the driver wheel well? Sway bar bushings? Subframe bushings?

lastly, is your idle speed high? or take a while to lower?

unfortunately I don't have any pics of the fluid when I last changed it. It looked pretty good, a little dark but not to bad. no burnt smell.
I don't remember if I had two magnets or triangle, if I had to guess I would say it was the 2 magnets. and I'm pretty sure that I had the rubber hose connecting the pipes.
I put a TransGo shift kit in it when I replaced the fluid and filter but didn't change the pistons and or seals. didn't know about that. It was taking a while to shift into 2nd and 3rd. after shift kit it has practically no delay when shifting anymore. I had to take the pipes and all that stuff out to do it and nothing was loose that I remember.
As far as the filter goes I couldn't get the old filter seal out so I put the new filter into it, and it fit tight.
As far as the thermal element, I didn't know what it was but I did look at it and it was snug and looked like the picture above. I'll check it when I do the work.
No codes
right cv shaft was changed 3 weeks ago along with hub and bearing assembly and right and left sway bar bushings and links. Left cv looks OK
left strut mount seems to be good. front struts and springs were replaced as full assembly about 4 or 5 yrs ago. I only put about 7 or 8 thousand miles a year on car so they are fairly new.
sub frame bushing look very good.
idle is as it should be.
Car runs and drives excellent except for this one issue with the trans.
Parts came today. Pistons, seals and pins. I'll have to see if I have time to do it this week. Might have to wait until next weekend, weather permitting. (no garage)
part number 134 above. is that a reusable gasket? I don't remember from last time I had trans apart.
thanks for the help. I'll update after I do the work.

I would highly highly highly highly highly recommend getting this part(you can try the dealer to see if its in stock or quicker than ship!)

THis replaces those 2 pipes with the hose. 24243134
I would for sure keep your fluid, maybe get a new filter and a new seal(they come together, and then get the old one out, You can use a small screwdriver, or brass punch or similar, get under the lip, and then collapse it in on itself and it will come out. a pick may help. Also

Amazon

Amazon

29535617 if you need the magnets, these are the two you buy. if you have the magnets, you dont. but youre in the production cut off year unfortunately.

Also, I would flush your cooler because its possible its getting a blockage or some other issue.

If either of the other lube pipes are loose 8651460 8651461 are both their part numbers.

I am not sure about the gasket. But 24205621 if you need it. be safe, I would.

Anyway, so, on your trans. I dont think your trans is toast by any means. I think you have a big lead to follow on your cv axle and wheel bearing.

When you get down there to work and look at things, you should check your new parts well. check the cv axle for proper plunge, for being properly torqued on the axle nut. the wheel bearing for problems or looseness. check all that. if you can put your car on ramps and check things as well as jack up. There should be plunge play on the inboard joint, there shouldnt be much on the outboard. and check those motor mounts. hows your torque axis mount? The rear mount? Those are forgotten a lot.

ignore the doodles like the x out. the helpful thing to see what mount is what and what it should look like

I hope yours does NOT look like this

Here is a pic of a Random persons park avenue for a reference

heres another. Just showing for good "what it should be" hopefully it can help(more than mine lol)

Id check those control arm bushings too.

Also, has your TPS been changed ever? have you verified the wiring isnt pulled tight or kinked at all

here is a picture of my 99 park avenue, see my TPS wires? kinked, yanked 180 right after connector, etc. my harness was not routed nicely. I had unwrapped it because I had various phantom issues. this was why.

voltage constant through these events?

man you sure are giving me a lot of work to do. LOL but it'* gotta be done!
for the trans, I have a new filter and gasket to go along with the other parts. I already have new fluid so I'm just going to put that in. the front motor mount has been changed, I have the right rear trans mount already so I guess I'll go ahead and get the driver side one too. that will make all three new.
I'll get the accumulator gasket, (gm calls it a plate), it'* only about $17.
I'll check the cv shafts, wheel hub etc. I do have a nice covered driveway to work on so that'* good. and ramps.
funny thing, for the pipe that replaces the one with the hose, amazon says it doesn't fit my car and GM Parts Giant says it does! of course I'll trust GM over Amazon. I'm going to go to a dealer and get it and the plate.
how do I flush the cooler lines? If anybody knows, please chime in.
and thanks for all the part numbers and everything else OldsManiac1990!
I've kinda been neglecting my Buick. I've been restoring my 91 Toronado all spring and summer. time to give me Park Ave some love!
I almost forgot, I think my tps is fine, A couple of months ago I put new upper plenum on and upper and lower gaskets on and cleaned and checked throttle and everything looked good including tps and wiring. but I'll keep it in mind.

You said new gasket, is your OE elastomeric gasket no longer working? I had the unfortunate situation where the previous dip-chip who was under my trans used a screwdriver and put a single gouge in the sealing surface and also distorted the gasket so I ended up using a bit of RTV and it still wanted to weep a bit. So I needed a gasket. but if its removed nicely and cleaned they can be reused for many years.
on the cooler lines, they do make chemical flush, the way I would do it is take one line, put some sea foam trans tune in and fill it to the other line (both ends that go to the trans that is) kinda cap it or plug it. let it sit for a while , then use a turkey baster and kinda carefully push out the one end through the other. if its not blocked it shouldnt be hard. but thats not the right way, but its how i would do it. Hell, I used a battery electrolyte bulb to fix my f150 e4OD which had a plugged cooler line. I Just undid it. and pushed air in and i felt it release lol. something important to note about that driver side mount, is when you accelerate, your drivetrain wants to move up and down on that mount. the torque axis mount is a partial player there, but not so much accelerating and stuff, its more for the imbalance at idle. In my case, that mount actually failed. Outright. That mount if it has a lot of play would be your clunk, for examle, if it failed like mine. but it may not have been so bad or may not at all etc etc. Forward and back movement is covered by the rear and forward mount which are fine now you say,

Another important part is that when your mount in driver well is bad, your driveline makes severe angle changes and that being the shorter axle already has an uphill battle for those things and it could be sticking and snapping too in this situation



this is actually what happens in the extreme scenario you have that binding and your engine is going into boost and your boost bypass solenoid was unhooked and you also had a traction control event, as your banking a hard left turn from a peel out from a stop with a swaybar link that broke so the angle was even more severe. LOL.

and yes, thats a wheel bearing missing the splines.

yeah, it does have the elastomeric gasket in it. I forgot. Oh well I guess I'll have a spare if I need it. the one I ordered is OEM too.
I have one of those canisters you use to flush out A/C lines that you hook an air line to and put solvent in it and flush the line with pressure. I won't use solvent, probably use Trans fluid.
Don't know when I'll get this done. I am swamped with work right now. I'll let ya'll know when I do it.