going to do the pads and replace the rotors all the way around on my 2000 Lesabre...I see some decent deals on epay for drilled and slotted rotors....any reason NOT to run them ?

It'* a Lesabre, c'mon, how many Lesabres or Bonnevilles for that matter do you see running autocross or road rallys? Your main concern when selecting new rotors should be country of origin, meaning USA and not China where the metallurgy I would suspect, read that warped rotors even during normal braking cycles. If the drilled and slotted rotors you're looking at are a USA manufactured brand name, go for it then.

2004 Bonneville SLE
1971 Chevelle SS

To answer your question, no, there is no reason not to get them. They are designed to rid water quickly and drilled to cool off quicker.

Drilled and slotted have less surface area, therefore less area for the pad to bite on in dry conditions. Also, they are more prone to cracking. Remember, our cars are heavy and notoriously under braked. If i was to do anything, i would just go for a good slotted rotor myself, but even then you have to keep an eye out for cracks

I had drilled/slotted rotors on a 1999 Oldsmobile Aurora (similar size & weight as the LeSabre) for a few years, and never had any issues. They did great in wet braking and I liked not worrying about heat & warping as much. I did have to use spacers on the rear wheels for clearance purposes, but that was likely due to the non-Oldsmobile wheels I had on my Aurora (it had chrome torque stars from a '98 Bonneville).

So, I'd recommend drilled/slotted if you can find a good bargain. But as mentioned, the USA manufacture is probably more important if that'* an option. I have had issues with cheap standard rotors warping in the past, and I'm betting they were China products.

Your labor time goes right out the window when you put this junk on, and it pulsates right from the get go.......more often than not, it will pulsate within a year...there is a reason they are so cheap....

well first off I wasnt thinking of using them because I thought I had a race car..zeeez....I was thinking of them to stop warping rotors


Tech...what "junk" are you refering to ????

Interesting. I have had a lot of trouble with all kinds of rotors warping some of them were OEM parts and none were slotted and drilled. If your brake rotors are hot and you hit a puddle and it throws water on them look out.

personally, i go to the parts store and ask to look at all the rotors they have in stock for my car. i bring my gauge with me, and buy the ones with the thickest braking surface. less chance of warping, and if they do warp they can be turned. the car quest near me turned all of mine for $20.00 last time i changed my pads.

I have used slotted and drilled rotors on my truck in the past and now have slotted on it, I never had any issues with cracking with the slotted and drilled and they stopped the rotor warping issue I was having on the front end. I had tried all kinds of plain rotors including OEM and would always end up warping them, I figure it'* from larger than factory tires and frequent heavy towing, the slotted and drilled rotors were Baer Decelarotors I would probably still have them but broke a pad on the Highway and by the time I stopped I had grooves deeper then the slots. I replaced them with ATE rotors that have a wavy slot all the way around instead of straight lines, so far so good I think the Baers were a bit better for overall braking but the ATE'* are close and about half the price. I agree buy good quality parts and there should be no issues, slotted and drilled or just slotted rotors of good quality will help the only downside is they cannot be turned and refinished at your local shop.