UPDATE! I put in a new bypass. It worked great until yet again the car doesn't wanna run after resetting the battery. I tested the bypass this time outside of the car and it had a signal! it is working but the scan tool still shows PASSKEY II DISABLED. The only thing I can conclude is the PCM may be failing. When the bypass is hooked up to the PCM the signal is eaten up or pretty much lost. Here is a picture of where the bypass is hooked into. Im going to try some more things but im pretty sure its PCM time. ​​​​​​​

The X is where the bypass is located

Hey Guys,
I am very familiar with the GM Vats and Passkey. I've installed 4 or 5 remote start kits in GM'* with the resistor and didn't have any problems.
First of all if you have a remote stater, the resistor for it is in a circuit with a relay that is energized by the remote start, and then the anti theft module sees the resistance and starts the car without a key. When you get in the car to start it with your key you still need the right key with the pellet because the circuit with the resistor isn't being energized. The only way to start it with a non resistor key is with a bypass module that bypasses the vats system. I tried one once and I couldn't get it to work so I went back to the relay circuit with the resistor.
Also, if you put a resistor in circuit with the orange wires it only goes inline with ONE of the wires.
I have a manual with all this in it and I'll look it up and see if I can answer any questions you give me. Unless you end up buying one of those modules. But keep in mind, one of those modules only works with a remote starter unit and the other more expensive one bypasses the whole vats system.
I can send you schematics, etc, just let me know.

When I wanted to use a key without a resistor in my 96 Park Ave I followed both orange wires to the harness they went to, cut both and ran resistor bypass to both spots where the wires went, and it worked fine.
Good info, I hope you can help him better than I can, if so thanks for helping.

Alright so I order another bypass and here is my plan. Im going to test with an oscilloscope the square wave for the new one and the old one to see if the reading are different. Then im just going to put it in and see if it works. I don't have multiple orange wire I just have 1 orange wire with 2 small white wires inside. That is what I am putting a resistor inline with. I tested continuity in the white wires and there is a voltage. The security light stays on when the ignition is on for a few mins but it definite does not blink. As stated higher in the thread I no longer have the Remote Start, the previous owner removed it. The bypass is completely past the the Passkey 2 system. Its at the very end where the blue "229" signal wire from the BCM is telling the PCM the "OK FUEL" signal to pulse the injectors. So because of this the only thing that could be wrong is the bypass or PCM UNLESS the BCM talks to the PCM through a different way. Iv also tried different relearn procejuers with no avail. As started earlier "THE NEW BYPASSES SEEM TO WORK UNTIL THE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED" Is there anyway to test the PCM or tune out the PCM for passkey? TommyB if you have more info please let me know. Im running low on hopes :(

Sorry it has been a while, yeah mine was the same, orange with 2 whites, I put the resistors ends where each white wire went into the wiring harness above foot area, but you can wire it in anywhere.
I am not sure how inline like suggested works, but if you cut the wires you can wire each white wire to an end of the resistor also...
Pretty sure that fuel enable bypass you put in still needs a signal from the 2 white wires in the orange sheath, coming from the ignition switch, before it will let the fuel enable send the request to enable fuel,...
Sorry had little sleep and running late for work, will try to help more ASAP.

hey guys,
yes the resistor goes across the two white wires.
I was talking about a remote start relay circuit when I said it was inline. Sorry.
I will get back to you in a couple hours, I have to go to work.
I will upload some schematics and look at the manual.

here are the diagrams for my car, keep in mind this is a 91 Olds Toronado. some of the connections are numbered different but I think it'* the same setup as your car.

here are the trouble shooting tables. make sure you have the correct readings. but the first thing I would check would be the square wave out of the pass key module if you have an oscilliscope. Sorry to bombard you with photos but I just jumped online to send these because I'll be working all night. I'll try to get back online around 1 am or so. Good Luck.

Thank you those diagrams will help alot on Monday when I got back to work. So something that I said in this thread is the bypass is complete past the Passkey system. Just for some reason on the fuel enable wire the signal is lost going into the PCM with the bypass installed. it just fizzles out. Even with a bench tested bypass. I could have the ground goofed up on the oscilloscope but im pretty sure the signal is just being lost. Here is a new picture to describe better where the bypass is. The starter also has a bypass installed.

Ok, I think your power wire should be 12volts, not 5v. try that and see if it works. You also can configure the bypass for 4 different settings with different frequencies.
I found this on YouTube from the manufacturer. just search for
bit.ly/gmvats on YouTube.
Let me know if this works. try all 4 different settings.
If it doesn't, what is the square wave voltage you are getting? Does the car start and then die, or not even crank?
How do you have your starter enable relay bypassed? that should be just a grounded circuit when cranking that energizes the starter relay.
also, If you have the wrong resistance or the passkey module is blocking it, the security light should stay illuminated and not blink indicating somethings wrong: everything ok, it will come on for 2 seconds and go out.