Let'* Start from the very Beginning of this nightmare. In December 2019 I bought a 1994 Buick Park Avenue Base Model. This car is very clean and was being sold because the owner could not get it running. He said "I changed the battery on it and now security just wont let the car start" He told me he tried the resister trick with the 2 orange wires to no avail. As well as bypassing the starter. I bought it and trailed it home. I found out the key he had is not a GM key but a remade one without the pellet. So I decided to try the resister trick myself, carefully testing each one to make sure it was correct. It didn't work. it still did the run for 3 seconds and then die thing. I then did some research and found out you can bypass the lock cylinder and theft module by placing a bypass inline with the blue Fuel Enable wire (223). it tricked the PCM and the car fired right up. But this wasn't the end. After about a month the bypass died. It was completely random. So I ordered another and then all was good. This is where is begins to get jucy.

I had to replace the bypass almost 5 times now. 1 was actually bypass failure but the 4 stopped working every time I disconnected the battery. No matter what I could not get the car restarted until I got a new Bypass. I have the vats key number from the dealer. I retried the vats resistance number but again failure. So here is the major question.
Why evertime the power is disconnected the car doesn't understand the bypass? Is there a relearn procedure for Passkey II? or does something need time to understand whats happening?

I had to deal with what I thought was a VATS issue for a while, but in the end I found out it was not a VATS issue..

I did the same as he probably did, I first measured the resistance of the key, and got a set of resistors, then made one to jumper the two places those orange wires go in the main wiring harness around where the drivers left foot is..
That is the part that only bypasses the lock switch if it has failed to read the keys resistance in the key switch.
That blue wire fuel enable runs into the BCM if I remember correctly.
The VATS module sends a voltage signal to the ECM from that wire, I think it is dc square-wave either 30or 60 Hz, if you have a bypass creating that frequency to send to the fuel enable in the ECM, then I am not sure why the battery getting disconnected would cause it to quit working.

Which disable kit are you using?

Does it have a blue wire and a grey wire, if it has a blue wire you are ignoring the blue wire from the bypass, and patching the grey wire from the bypass to the blue fuel enable wire?


Just curious, but did he tell you what the resistance was of the pellet in his original factory key?
and do you still have the resistor in place since the orange wires are now cut from the switch?

Here is resistance chart, it should be one of those...

Yes so the bypass is spliced in with the Blue Fuel Enable wire (#223)going from the Passkey module to the PCM. it is running the correct voltage for the bypass and is active only when the key is turned forward in the ignition. It just seems to stop working every time I reset the battery. I got the VATS key number from dealer where they scanned my Vin. Some additional info that may help is he told me it had aftermarket remote start at one point. The owner I bought it from did not have the GM key. He had the same issue when he replaced the battery. Could the remote start goof anything up like this?
​​​​​​

If whomever hooked up the aftermarket remote start had the right bypass installed, and had it wired/grounded correctly there should be no problems.
All I have been able to find out is that sine use this bypass with aftermarket remote start, and they say it works well, of course we are not sure if it is causing you problems or not.
https://www.ebay.com/c/671803129

I am not sure what else to do since I only know a little about PassLock, other than maybe be sure that 5v fuel enable signal is reaching the PCM, I had the info for which pin and all it is, I'll have to try to find it again, unless anybody else has any ideas..

Well I texted the previous owner and he told me he bought the car with the remote start was installed. He said it was very old. Late 90s. When the car wouldn't start he REMOVED the remote start system. It was an aftermarket system. So now I have a new theory He bought the car with a non-GM key. It was okay because the remote start didn't care if the wrong key was in. When he changed the battery something went wrong and Remote start died and that why he could not get the car restarted. The question is if I bought a remote start system could I just permanently bypass the GM security? Could wiring be goofed up because of the remote start removal and thats why I have to keep replacing bypasses? Do you have better aftermarket bypasses in mind?

This is the bypass I keep buying:GM Bypass

Thanks, Alex

Hmm, that car almost looks like the Park Ave a forum member named Randall owned, but sold a while back...

Anyways, I have never seen that bypass, looks simple, and fairly small, I used a breadboard and built the 30/60 hz square wave generator, and it took up a lot more space than that, of course I am an armature at building circuits, which is why I used a breadboard first..

Personally I'd try the one I found on Ebay before I'd try that one you got from e-bay, they are discontinued but still out there..
I read a lot of good feedback from them in regards with aftermarket remote start on LS1 and another forum...

I wonder how hard it would be to have the remote start removed, never installed one myself, but it cannot be that hard, that would rule any remote start issues totally...
After all who used that feature, lol I have had it on my Grand Prix and only used it once to make sure it worked...

Okay. Can I use the eBay module you posted earlier without remote start? Will it be a bypass?


Thanks, Alex

I'm trying to get more info on it now, but so far I am not sure if it will bypas without being hooked to a remote start.

i am curious though, have you ever checked the ohms on the BCM wiring that comes from the resistor or whatever bypass is installed?
Your BCM should be on the passenger side, way up under and above feet area, I had to get upside down to get mine, lol
It should have three connectors on it, if so remove the middle connector and get an ohmmeter, set it to measure ohm, now measure the resistance at the harness part, not the BCM, hook to the two end pins upper and lower, A6 and B6, I think if you look at the back of the harness the wires will be yellow and the other black.
You should see the same resistance that you were told by the dealer, that is the resistance for your keys pellet.. If that resistance is not pretty close, than there is a wiring problem from the ignitions bypass to the BCM.

Need to get some sleep now, but I'll look this over again after I get up.

That is a great idea. I have not tried to test continuity on the yellow and black wire. My bypass does not run on these wires. My bypass is hook in-between the BCM and ECM to the Fuel Enable Wire (#223). It on the middle connecter.

Ahh ok, maybe it is just 96' and up that run on those,

You still have the BCM though right?
'I am not sure where your bypass is running, all I am saying is if you measure those two circuits, at the wiring harness, and do not have the resistance the dealer told you the key had, then I am not sure how the bypass will ever work, unless I am wrong at how I understand they work.
I am more familiar with 96 and up.
I thought both work through the key/ignition part with the 2 orange wires, which is resistance is not correct the starter won't engage for older models, and your earlier models like yours the fuel is shut off, if my understanding is right then the BCM has to have the connectors coming from the ignition that have the resistance I mentioned.
If you tested continuity on those two wires I mentioned then what was the resistance?

You may have read this already, if not this site has a good explanation of everything, and they sell a bypass that is said to bypass the TDM all together.
Only thing is the bypass is 260.00, it has a lifetime warranty though, I've not used it myself so I cannot say how good it is, or if it works with remote start, I'll have to read more on it...
They may have a non pro module...
https://newrockies.com/passlock-bypass-2/