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Old 04-01-2014, 05:48 AM   #11
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I'm sitting here trying to figure out how that solenoid would make that kind of noise. Then it dawned on me, with the cover over it, it makes a nice acoustic chamber for it. Or amphitheater LOL.

To remove the cover, simply twist the entire oil cap and tube together counterclockwise. Once both cap and fill tube are removed, simply lift from the bottom of the cover up and it will just pop off.
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Old 04-01-2014, 07:25 AM   #12
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throw away that cover they cause issues anyway. they make good tool holders if you flip it over. as far as the purge if it is that something is definitely wrong i have never heard one sound like that.
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Old 04-01-2014, 07:35 AM   #13
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Evap was another guess of mine, but i was thinking it is too loud
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Old 04-01-2014, 11:56 AM   #14
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Took the cover off.... and.......


It does sound different......
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:18 PM   #15
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you have the normal belt sounds but what about the purge solenoid, the sound was more prevalent over the front cylinders, thats where that is, by the front valve cover. do you hear anything there?
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Old 04-01-2014, 02:54 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwfirebird View Post
you have the normal belt sounds but what about the purge solenoid, the sound was more prevalent over the front cylinders, thats where that is, by the front valve cover. do you hear anything there?

So i went back out and did another video to listen really hard for the sounds, revved up the engine a bit and nothin happen..... but soon as i stop shooting it the sound started again and I think Ive found the problem. There is a small hose that is broken which i think connects to the solenoid....I dont know what that hose is called....but correct me if im wrong....



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Old 04-01-2014, 05:23 PM   #17
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one side should go to the throttle body or a tee on some to the regulator and the other should go to the canister. there should be a diagram on your hood
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Old 04-01-2014, 05:52 PM   #18
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I see where it broke, that is just a soft EVAP connector, you can get them from an autoparts store for 2-3$, remove both broken ends, and take them in and they should be able to get you what you need.
At the autoparts store I went to they had the connectors in the Help Section..

While you are there, after you place the new connector on, if you still have the codes you were getting, ask them to reset them for you, they should be able to hook their scan tool to it and do that in a few seconds, after that I am betting those codes do not come back.
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Old 04-01-2014, 06:05 PM   #19
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Attaching a pic of what that looks like connected.
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Engine Sounds-dscn5352.jpg  
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Old 04-01-2014, 09:29 PM   #20
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Art, Justin and Will are correct. I see the broken elbow too.

BUT, does any one else see something wrong around the 38 second mark? I've seen the same thing happen to mine before too.
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